Porto Vintage, Taylor - 2017

Provenance: Portugal
Appellation: Porto
Domain: Taylor's
Grape variety(ies): Touriga nacional, touriga franca, tinta roriz, tinta cão, tinta barroca
On-call time: 50 years
Style of wine: Vin doux
Alcohol degree: 20%

The 2017 Taylor's Vintage Port comes from their three quintas: Vargellas, de Terra Feita and do Junco, picking commencing at Vargellas on September 1, the earliest since 1945. Now this boasts a bold and more flamboyant bouquet vis-à-vis the Croft with layers of blackcurrant, blueberries, violet and allspice. Wonderful definition here and as it ratchets up through the gears with aeration manages to maintain impressive delineation. The palate is medium, rather full-bodied. The first impression is one of freshness, completely disguising that summer's dryness and warmth, a disarming finesse built around the frame of tannins that would have been impossible years ago. It is a silky-smooth Taylor's, one of the most polished 2017 Vintage Ports with energy and tension flooding through the finish. Aristocratic as ever, totally Taylor's, yet still translating the growing season with aplomb. 98/100 Neal Martin, Vinous; 98-100/100 Wine Advocate; 99/100 J. Suckling; 97/100 Decanter; 18.5/20 J. Robinson

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Technique

Viticulture

A vintage Port, it is only made in exceptional years (Declared Vintages). It is a blend of the finest wines from the House's three Quintas (estates): Vargellas, Terra Feita and more recently, Junco. Selected by the house's panel of tasters after the harvest, the wines from the three Quintas are aged in oak barrels for two winters. They are tasted again in their second spring. If they show exceptional quality, they are retained for the final blend. The Vargellas Port wines bring structure, elegance and complexity to the blend, while the Terra Feita and Junco wines give it body, thickness and great fruity power. The House can then decide to declare a vintage. Everything depends on the quality of the blend, which must be of unquestionable greatness: austere in its youth, with intense depth, it must be capable of ageing for years and decades, becoming the quintessential great Port wine.

Oenology

Throughout its history, Taylor has rarely declared more than three vintages per decade. These are collector's wines par excellence, built for ageing, developing over many years the elegant and harmonious imprint of the mature Taylor Vintage. A global icon among great wines.