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Sierras de Malaga, Voladeros "Ghiara", V. Ordonez (magnum) - 2017

Ghiara is a selection of the best casks from the 2017 vintage of Voladeros. This is a dry PX, known until the end of the 19th century as mountain wine, which the French called Vin de Málaga, then among the most renowned in Europe. It is made in the style of D. Baldomero Ghiara, with four years' barrel ageing. Ghiara, Picasso's uncle and patron, was the last great mountain wine producer and, from his Lagar El Lince in the Montes de Málaga, he changed the world of wine forever when he introduced asepsis to oenology in 1904.
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The grapes come from the late harvest of Santo Pitar, in the Montes de Málaga, the most famous in the whole province of Málaga. Santo Pitar is a hill situated at an altitude of 1,019 metres. Its southern slope overlooks the Mediterranean Sea, while its northern slope is home to centuries-old vineyards and a pre-phylloxera vineyard that is incorporated into this production. The extremely steep topography, with slopes ranging from 46% to 76%, requires exclusively manual tillage and heroic viticultural techniques. In these conditions, yields are very low (900-1200 kg/Ha.).


The grapes were harvested between 8 and 12 August by hand, in 9kg crates, with the help of mules only, and collected in refrigerated transport at the foot of the vineyard. The must was fermented at a controlled temperature in French oak barrels. The wine was aged on its lees in the same barrels, with frequent stirring of the lees, until May 2018. After this date, the wine was aged on its lees until October 2021. In total, the wine underwent more than 4 years of barrel ageing, at the end of which it stabilised. After bottling, it was matured in bottle for a further 6 months.

Suggestions for accompaniment

Calamari a la plancha and chorizo chips • Potted chicken with tarragon.

The author Cecilio García de La Leña spoke as early as the 18th century of the wines of Montes de Málaga, which enjoyed "a perfect reputation" and were "acclaimed throughout Europe, even in America and Russia". No less! Their production was abandoned due to the ravages of phylloxera and it was not until 2015 that viticulture was reborn in the region with the arrival of the winery, which is still the only one in the area. From there, everything has to be reinvented, no model to follow, just one's own path to follow. Heroic viticulture is necessary to give birth to these wines; slopes between 46 and 76% make mechanised work impossible on the 12 small plots of land scattered among oaks and pines at altitudes ranging from 800 to 1000m. The soils date from the Precambrian period, 600 million years ago. They are very poor in organic matter and very complex with the presence of phyllite, limestone, sandstone, shale and silica among magma residues. Yields are very low (900/1000kg per hectare), which allows for parcel farming in small containers.

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