Definition: Truffles (origins)

Tuber melanosporum, known as the black Périgord truffle or Provence truffle, is the queen of truffles, with a very strong aroma and a very pleasant flavour. It requires calcareous soil and warmth. In recent years, those from Périgord have been the most prized, but they have spread to several other regions:

They are found in Vaucluse, in the south of Drôme, in Lot and generally in the south-east of France (Gard, Bouches-du-Rhône, Alpes-de-Haute-Provence and Var). This area accounts for 83% of French production. But it is also found in Morocco, Spain, Italy and the former Yugoslavia. It grows best in symbiosis with white oak or holm oak.

Black Tricastin truffle: these come from the Rhône-Alpes region between Bugey and Valromey, and even in Ardèche. Harvested from November to March, the earliest ones are considered to be of inferior quality. There are 700 to 800 harvesters spread across 68 municipalities in Drôme and 15 in Vaucluse.

Black truffle from Touraine: The Tricastin truffle has been adopted in the south of this region, where the Richelieu market successfully sells 6 to 8 tonnes during the winter.

Black truffle from Provence-Alpes-Côte-d'Azur: Vaucluse is by far the largest producer, but truffles are also harvested in the Luberon and Valréas regions. Harvesting, known as cavage, takes place from mid-October to mid-March.

Black truffle from Languedoc-Roussillon: this comes mainly from the Gard. Between 2 and 3 tonnes are harvested between¹ October and 20 March.

Black truffle from Burgundy: its aroma is lighter than that of the Périgord truffle. It is harvested from late September to late December, with peak production in November. The Côte d'Or accounts for half of the harvest, but the volume in this region remains difficult to estimate as the truffles are very often harvested in the wild. Tuber uncinatum, known as the Burgundy truffle, grey Burgundy truffle, Lorraine truffle or Haute-Marne truffle, is an edible ascomycete fungus (of the Tuber genus). The Burgundy truffle resembles Tuber aestivum but with a more pronounced smell and taste. It is the most widespread throughout Europe and forms a symbiotic relationship with a greater variety of trees: (oaks, hazelnuts, hornbeams, beeches and pines). It is also less demanding in terms of heat and soil quality.

Limousin black truffle: around fifteen producers harvested approximately 500 kg, but the planting of some 5,000 trees should increase this production in the future.

Black truffle from the Meuse in Lorraine: it is mainly harvested on the hillsides overlooking the Meuse, from Verdun to Neufchâteau. It would appear that these are not cultivation soils, but primarily experimental ones.

Which wine to choose with black truffles? The opulent aroma of truffles calls for a fine red wine from Burgundy, a great Bordeaux, a Côte-Rôtie, or even a Cahors. If truffles are accompanying a fish dish, choose a fine white Burgundy or even a Jurançon.

Truffles already existed more than four thousand years ago in Mesopotamia. They were widely used by the Greeks; the Egyptians ate them cooked in foil; the Romans ate them at the theatre like sweets. Louis XIV paid particular attention to them, and they still enjoy the same status today.

The Vaucluse region accounts for 74% of production in France, and if the Périgord designation persists, it is because the packaging companies are still located there.

Tuber magnatum Pico, known as the white truffle of Alba
It can be confused with Tuber borchii. Very strong garlic-like aroma.

Tuber æstivum, known as the Mayenque truffle, with a delicate, light scent of undergrowth and a subtle taste of wild mushrooms. Maturity period: early May to late September.

Tuber brumale, known as the musky truffle, with a scent of turnip tinged with garlic (T.B suavum) ethereal, (T.B moschatu) and a very peppery and slightly sweet taste; ripening period: mid-November to late March.
Tuber mesentericum, known as the Lorraine truffle, with a pleasant aroma of liquorice and almonds (only when ripe) and a bitter taste.
Ripening period: mid-September to late December.
A caveur or rabassier is someone who searches for truffles.
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