Definition: Truffles and wines

Truffles love to flirt with wine, but they are rarely eaten on their own. Each preparation calls for a different vintage. The first idea that comes to mind when it comes to food and wine pairings is to play on the aromatic harmony. This is often a good choice: mature Pomerol wines give off subtle truffle aromas. They are among the best accompaniments for many truffle dishes. However, aromatic pairing is only one aspect of the problem; texture pairing must also be taken into account: a dish may be dry or creamy, soft or crunchy. Wines, on the other hand, differ in their concentration, acidity and tannic structure, which vary according to their origin and degree of maturity. A tender, delicate fish will go well with a smooth, round white wine such as a Chassagne-Montrachet. A roast lamb with a firm texture will go well with a powerful, tannic wine such as a Pauillac. It is also important to consider the garnish and sauce, which can alter the balance of flavours in a dish: green beans emphasise the bitterness of tannins, while fish in a red wine sauce will pair better with a Saint-Julien than with a Riesling. The ideal pairing takes all these constraints into account. And what is the ideal pairing, if not the one that will give you the most pleasure and leave you with the fondest memories? All roads lead to Rome, but in the quest for the ideal pairing, you will have a better chance of success if you play by the rules rather than multiplying iconoclastic attempts at pairing. Remember, in particular, that it is (almost) always preferable to serve white wines with light-coloured dishes and red wines with dark-coloured dishes.

In most cases, the maturity of the wine is an important factor in pairing. The preference for maturity depends greatly on what the truffle is accompanied by: a raw truffle, with salt, will go wonderfully well with a full-bodied Meursault or an aged Sauternes; the same truffle, accompanied by raw fish or oysters, will pair well with a young Chablis or a Pouilly-Fumé. As a general rule, young red wines do not pair well with truffles due to their fruitiness and woodiness, which have not yet mellowed, resulting from ageing in new oak barrels. Red fruit notes also do not go well with truffles, except when these notes are blended into a bouquet of tertiary aromas dominated by mushroom and humus scents, which is generally the case with great red wines that have reached maturity. Finally, remember that Chardonnay, the grape variety used in white Burgundy wines, does not pair well with olive oil. If you want to enjoy a great white wine with a truffle dish containing olive oil, opt for a Hermitage or a white Châteauneuf-du-Pape rather than a Burgundy. Truffle dishes are classics of haute cuisine and require careful consideration when choosing the right wine to accompany them.

The exceptional refinement, rarity and cost of these dishes often lead to the choice of fine wines to accompany them, which is perfectly legitimate. Truffles are a magical product: this luxury delicacy is also a child of the earth, always remaining very close to the terroir where it was born. It is a wild child with a brown heart and torn skin, but one that still wears a diamond necklace and will always pair better with a Château Margaux than with a local wine, jewels of oenology that are the perfect companions for the black diamond.