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Technique
Viticulture
This grape variety is part of the ancient composition of the island's grapes, and still forms the basis of the wines for which the island is famous. Rare, it is also found in small quantities in two other regions, again close to the ocean, where it is known as Molar in Colares or Saborinho in the Azores, but it should not be confused with the Negra Mole variety from the Algarve. It would appear that its role in the past was to alter white wine to give it the golden hue that was so fashionable at the time. Age of vines: around 40 years. Location: 50% Estreito de Câmara de Lobos, in the south of Madeira, and 50% São Vicente, in the north of the island. 6,500 numbered bottles.
Oenology
The grapes were harvested by hand, transported in 35 kg crates and selected on a sorting table. The grapes were destemmed without crushing and then pressed. Decanting after 24 hours, fermentation in stainless steel at 14-16 degrees C. Aged on lees for 6 months.
Suggestions for accompaniment
Steamed swordfish and courgette rolls with lemon coriander sauce • Sushi.
Liquid geography
Considered one of the most dynamic young winemakers of his generation, António Maçanita makes wines from the Azores archipelago to the Alentejo, via Porto Santo, a small island off the coast of Madeira. He excels in his ability to capture the essence of the terroir and regional traditions. The project featured here was created with his friend of fifteen years, Nuno Faria, a restaurateur. The island of Porto Santo emerged 14 million years ago from the Atlantic Ocean, making it one of the oldest of the Portuguese archipelagos. The ancients say that it was here that the ripest grapes were harvested. Today, less than 14 hectares of vines remain. The inhabitants of Porto Santo are known as the 'Prophets', an ancient nickname that takes on its full meaning when you see these old vines planted by the sea, close to the ground, protected from the ocean and the wind by rock walls and pergolas. The wines produced here dazzled us with their finesse, freshness and easy-to-digest character. Wines that we would never have blind-tasted in Portugal! Quite a discovery, alas, in very small quantities...
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