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Sierras de Malaga, Voladeros, Victoria Ordonez - 2019

Victoria Ordóñez is the grande dame of Málaga, responsible for the revival of the great local dry wines of this legendary vineyard. From the fascinating PX (Pedro Ximenez) grape variety, 4133 bottles have been produced of this rare mountain wine. The result is a sapid wine with aromatic herbs and lemongrass aromas: the palate is incredibly fresh and long, full-bodied.
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Technique

Viticulture

It is the first mountain wine produced in Malaga since the end of the 19th century. Historic vineyards of Santo Pitar and Lagar de Rovira, located at an altitude of about 1000 m in the Natural Park of the Málaga Mountains. Two plots of 0.59 ha and 3.36 ha, planted in 1960 and 1902 respectively. Extremely steep topography, with slopes between 46 and 76%, only allows manual work using old techniques. Yields are very low (900 kg/ha) but the concentration of the berry is optimal.

Oenology

Complex and ancient soils. Phyllites (slates) predominate. Shale, magma intrusions, quartz, limestone and sandstone are also present. This type of soil is easily eroded and very poor in organic matter (0.73%). The climate is subhumid and Mediterranean with an average temperature of 15.6°C. Harvested by hand in 9 kg crates, with the sole help of mules. Fermentation in new French oak barrels of 500 and 600 litres. Aged for 9 months and stored in bottles for four months before marketing.

Suggestions for accompaniment

Calamari a la plancha and chorizo chips • Potted chicken with tarragon.

Domain
The author Cecilio García de La Leña spoke as early as the 18th century of the wines of Montes de Málaga, which enjoyed "a perfect reputation" and were "acclaimed throughout Europe, even in America and Russia". No less! Their production was abandoned due to the ravages of phylloxera and it was not until 2015 that viticulture was reborn in the region with the arrival of the winery, which is still the only one in the area. From there, everything has to be reinvented, no model to follow, just one's own path to follow. Heroic viticulture is necessary to give birth to these wines; slopes between 46 and 76% make mechanised work impossible on the 12 small plots of land scattered among oaks and pines at altitudes ranging from 800 to 1000m. The soils date from the Precambrian period, 600 million years ago. They are very poor in organic matter and very complex with the presence of phyllite, limestone, sandstone, shale and silica among magma residues. Yields are very low (900/1000kg per hectare), which allows for parcel farming in small containers.
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