Definition: Truffle

The most expensive food in the world. It is commonly said that truffles are underground mushrooms, but more accurately they are the fruit of mycelium. In the classification of fungi, truffles are classified as hypogeous ascomycetes. They are ascomycetes because their spores are enclosed in sacs (asci) and hypogeous because they grow underground. Truffles are generally round in appearance, but may be irregular due to the terrain.

The biological cycle of the truffle is unique; like all fungi, truffles do not have chlorophyll, so they are forced to attach themselves to another life form in order to survive. In the case of truffles, we talk about a partnership, or even symbiosis, between the tree and the fungus. It is therefore thanks to its vegetative system, the mycelium, that the truffle seeks out a host tree. When the rootlets of the host tree and the mycelium meet, an organism essential for exchange is born: the mycorrhiza. Thanks to mycorrhizae, truffles draw organic substances from the tree, without which they could not survive. This is known as mycorrhizal symbiosis. Mycorrhization occurs either naturally through the presence of truffle pores in the soil, or by planting oak trees that are already mycorrhized. Once the tree has been planted, it will take around ten years for the tree's roots to become colonised and for the first truffles to appear. It is the mycelium, produced by the mycorrhizae, that will give rise to the small truffles. Around May-June, the mycelium will retract to form a ball called a primordium. If they do not wither, these small truffles will develop and become independent in July. During the summer, truffles grow exponentially from a few grams to their normal weight, which is usually 30 to 50 grams. Truffles only acquire their colour and aroma at the time of harvest. But things are not that simple, and the biological cycle of truffles requires the interdependence of three elements: soil, climate and host tree.

Season and climate: black truffles require a temperate climate, a spring with alternating periods of humidity and heat, and an autumn that is not too wet. Harvest period: December, January, February. White truffles mature during the summer and are harvested from October to December.

The main species harvested in France:

Of the truffle species identified, five are mainly produced and marketed in France. These are the following species:

Tuber melanosporum Vittadini: black truffle known as Périgord or Tricastin.

It is harvested from mid-November to mid-March; its peridium (outer shell) is composed of small polygonal warts and is dark brown in colour, turning black when ripe. It is round in shape, even slightly bumpy. Its flesh is black-purple when ripe. Its veins are fine, well-marked and branched; white when cut, they turn slightly red when exposed to air. It has a scent of dry mushrooms, humus and damp undergrowth. It is soft and crunchy on the palate; initially spicy, with a slight taste of black radish, followed by a nutty flavour and finally a hint of woody humus, sometimes earthy when in contact with the peridium.

Tuber brumale Vittadini: Harvested from November to March. Its dark brown, blackish peridium is fragile and easily detached. Rounded and bumpy in shape, its flesh is grey-black and translucent, with thick, widely spaced white veins. It has a pleasant, but often strong, musky aroma. On the palate, it has a certain bitterness and a slightly earthy, humus flavour.

Tuber uncinatum Chatin: known as the Burgundy truffle. Blackish in colour, its flesh is dark brown when ripe, with numerous white veins. It has a mushroomy aroma and a variable taste; when fully ripe, the bitterness disappears, revealing a sweet hazelnut flavour.

Tuber aestivum Vittadini: Saint John's truffle, white summer truffle. It is the most widespread but least sought-after truffle, harvested from May to September. Round or bumpy in shape, it is generally large in size. Its peridium is blackish brown. Its flesh turns beige when ripe; its veins are white, fine and numerous. It has a faint mushroom and undergrowth aroma and a bitter, earthy taste.

Tuber mesentericum: this truffle is round or irregular in shape, with a very black peridium covered with flattened warts 3 to 5 mm in size, tightly packed at the top. This truffle always has a basal dimple. It is rather small, reaching the size of an egg. Its flesh is firm, initially grey-brown, then dark brown or even chocolate-coloured when ripe. It has white veins forming a labyrinth. The aroma is not always pleasant, often strong, with a hint of phenol and bitumen, which disappears shortly after extraction. Although bitter on the palate, it is worth preparing with certain dishes. It is harvested from September to January. Its production area is that of the melanosporum and brumale. These five species of truffles have very different taste and culinary qualities, which is of course reflected in their prices. Thus, if we take 100 as the base for Tuber melanosporum, we get 15 for Tuber mesentericum, 20 for Tuber aestivum, 50 for Tuber uncinatum, and 60 for Tuber brumale.

The white truffle of Alba (Tuber Magnatum - TuberMagnatum Pico)

English: White truffle. Known as the diamond of Alba. Since ancient times, truffles have remained an enigma. How do they feed, how do they breathe? How do they reproduce? According to Plutarch, this mushroom, the "child of the gods", was formed by thunder and lightning...

The white truffle - tuber magnatum - is less well known, except to Italians, who are crazy about it. And with good reason, as they are rather fortunate, since only a few kilometres from the Alba region in Piedmont, they have exclusive rights to this very specific harvest. There are certainly other white truffles in France and Italy, but these are summer varieties that bear no resemblance to the paragon of Alba. The distinctive feature of truffles is that they are intimately linked to a tree. However, white truffles do not attach themselves to just any tree. For this almost marital union, they take up residence at the foot of oak, lime and poplar trees, with a preference for moist soils, generally along the banks of streams and at the bottom of embankments. In the Alba region, efforts are underway to replant poplar trees. This, combined with harvest regulations, should help to revive production, which has been on the decline. Harvested from October to December, it is generally a good size. It is even the largest of the edible truffles: its diameter can exceed 10 cm and its weight can reach over 500 g! What are the characteristics that make it so appealing? A yellow peridium, smooth and soft to the touch, and a yellowish and light pink-brown gleba, a valuable indicator of maturity when it turns pink. Its light flesh and intense aroma make it an incomparable delicacy. It was also a favourite at the court of Henry II, thanks to Catherine de Medici's Florentine cooks, where it was served boiled in water, without seasoning. And for the record, it is said that Rossini caused a sensation by preparing a dish of white truffles from Piedmont himself during a dinner at the Baron de Rothschild's house. So much so that the expression "Piedmont truffle à la Rossini" has become proverbial. When cooked, it goes very well with capon or veal. However, it is when eaten raw that they best reveal their special taste, which true gourmets consider extraordinary. Their smell gives away their character: highly aromatic, they give off a scent similar to garlic cheese. So much so that in the Alba region, there is an unspoken rule that you are not allowed to carry them with you when travelling by train!

The best way to enjoy it is cut into very thin slices or grated – but not too finely, otherwise the truffle crumbles and loses its flavour. White truffle shavings will subtly enhance your soups, pasta dishes, carpaccios and risottos. For this unique flavour, one white truffle is worth ten of the best black truffles. The 2000 vintage? It is already being hailed as excellent, with an estimated production of 20 tonnes and a price of around £1,600 per kilo – which is quite reasonable, as in some years it has doubled. So, for the festive season, treat yourself to this refined pleasure, the perfect opportunity to verify Galen's adage that "this edible bulb disposes to voluptuousness".

The white truffle as described by Alain Dutournier - Carré des Feuillants, Paris.

Ancient peoples believed it to be the "daughter of lightning". The Greeks and Romans were very fond of it and revered it for its aphrodisiac qualities. The gourmet Rossini called it "the Mozart of mushrooms". Its favourite terroir is Piedmont, on the edge of the Langhe and Roero hills, which give us Italy's great wines: Dolcetto, Barbera, Barbaresco, Barolo and Nebbiolo. Like these wines, there are five different types of white truffle, determined by the type of tree on whose roots they grow. Thus, depending on whether they grow on weeping willow, oak, poplar, lime or vine, their colour varies from white, sometimes veined with pink, to greyish brown. This Italian white truffle has a wild garlic aroma with a mineral note reminiscent of hydrocarbons. It is essential not to cook it, but to use it raw, grated over crusty bread or a hot dish. Its aroma is fleeting. While its black cousin is the perfect accompaniment to the great red wines of Pomerol, it pairs beautifully with a fine, aged Riesling. Italians like to eat them plain, grated like tissue paper over pasta with butter and cheese or over eggs.

Did you know that in northern Italy, white truffles are a must at weddings? Since Italians marry off their daughters by inviting all members of the family, even the most distant, a lot of truffles are needed... and the more weddings there are in the autumn, the fewer white truffles there are on the market!

Purchasing

Much more expensive and rarer than the black Périgord truffle, it fetches two to three times the price on the market, which fluctuates greatly depending on availability.

The season covers October and November. It is generally stretched until Christmas, when the black truffle takes over.

Harvest

The black truffle, Tuber mélanosporum, is harvested from mid-November to mid-March. The truffle farmer, accompanied by a dog or a pig depending on the region, walks through the truffle field, watching the animal's behaviour. The animal, nose to the ground, sniffs the soil in search of a scent that indicates the presence of the tuber. As usual, it will simply mark the ground with its paw, and the truffle farmer will then have to dig up the soil (caver) to pick the mushroom. In most cases, however, the animal will dig up the earth with its paws or snout to uncover the truffle. The truffle farmer then intervenes to prevent his working companion from eating it. Once the truffle has been collected, the animal will receive its reward: for dogs, a piece of cake or a bit of Gruyère cheese, and for pigs, corn kernels. Truffle dogs are not usually purebreds; most are mongrels. They simply have a keen sense of smell, a passion for truffles and a strong bond with their owner. A truffle dog usually only works with its owner.

Marketing

The truffle trade remains fairly intimate. Truffle growers usually go to the truffle markets held in different villages each week, depending on the day of the week. The largest market, in Richerenches en Tricastin, is held on Saturdays, while the market in Carpentras in the Vaucluse region takes place on Fridays. In the south-west, the Albencque market is held on Tuesdays. At market time, the brokers park their cars with their boots open and their Roman scales ready to weigh the wonderful tubers. The truffle farmers, meanwhile, holding a more or less full canvas bag, exchange a few words about the weather, the week's harvest and the hypothetical price, each hoping to get the most out of it. For some, the broker is chosen in advance, as trust has been established and there is no need to haggle with others. Most, however, will offer their products to different buyers to get a better idea of the day's trends. Once the sale is complete, everyone heads to the local bistro to share the traditional pastis. This market atmosphere is something to be experienced, because in addition to this mysterious spectacle, the air is heavily scented with the delicious smell of truffles. The broker is the central figure in the truffle trade; there are only about twenty of them, and they are the ones who set the prices based on the requests they receive from merchants and restaurateurs. The truffles are sorted and unwashed before being sent to their destination.

Truffles and their mysteries

Many mysteries surround truffle farming, as its development is far from being fully understood and mastered. However, humans have managed to maintain and preserve them. So, are truffles an aphrodisiac? The answer is far from clear; however, if sows naturally seek out truffles, it is because they give off scents similar to substances found in the sexual organs of pigs. And then, didn't Brillat-Savarin write: "So let's continue to believe in them and, above all, to eat them!"

Which truffle should you buy?

To the question: should you choose a fresh truffle over a preserved truffle, even one that has been boiled for the first time? The answer is YES, without hesitation! When ripe (mid-December to mid-March), fresh truffles are a treasure trove of aromas. They will release their fragrance for several days. However, out of season, when fresh truffles are not available, tinned truffles have their merits. At this stage, it is important to know what product you are buying and how it has been sterilised. It is important to note that many canners sterilise truffles twice before selling them. This process is used to extract the truffle juice, which is sold separately, but the truffle itself is sterilised twice. These preserves are known as "second cooking". Given the fragility of the aromas, it is therefore almost pointless to look for the fragrance.

French legislation now allows Tuber mélanosporum and Tuber brumale, which have very different qualities, to be preserved under the name "truffle". It is therefore important to be vigilant and, when buying a jar or tin of truffles, to check that the label includes the name Tuber mélanosporum and "first boiling truffle". For your assurance, the designation "Truffe du Tricastin" requires sterilisation in first boiling and only with mélanosporum. Located in the heart of Tricastin, near the Richerenches market and surrounded by truffle fields, we guarantee that "LECAVEUR" brand truffles are mélanosporum and first boiling.

Cooking with truffles

Truffles are easy to cook, but it is important to know how to bring out their best. Fresh truffles are not cooked in the same way as preserved truffles. The former are living fungi that release their aromas over several days. The latter are dead fungi that release their aromas for about an hour and a half after the jar is opened. When cooking fresh truffles, it is therefore important to capture and store all the available aromas during this time. When cooking truffles, it is also important to respect the proportions (approximately 8 to 10 grams per person). Finally, it is important to note that the aromas are volatile and fragile, and that cooking them for too long or at too high a temperature will cause them to disappear. Preserved truffles are not suitable for all recipes. Their aromas can be captured using eggs, cream, béchamel sauce, butter, etc. Any preparation will require a certain amount of contact time for the aromas to be transferred.