Definition: oenotria

Italy's modern prodigiousness in terms of wine begins with the historical account of the eternal link between humans and wine.

The nature of the land, the influence of the Mediterranean sun and the mountain air blowing over the hills of the peninsula and islands have fostered what appears to be an almost spontaneous cultivation of vines. The heritage of Italian wine dates back some 4,000 years to prehistoric times, when men pressed wild grapes to obtain juice that, as if by magic, fermented and became wine. When the ancient Greeks invaded southern Italy, they called these colonies Oenotria, "the land of wine ". The Etruscans were subtle and serene practitioners of the art of wine production in the hills of central Italy, as evidenced by the art and numerous artefacts left in their spacious tombs.

The Romans spread the cult of Bacchus to the farthest corners of the Empire, developing a flourishing wine trade throughout the Mediterranean and beyond. Their viticultural and oenological knowledge was so advanced that their techniques were not equalled until the^17th and^18th centuries, when Italians and other Europeans began to view wine production as a science rather than a mystical phenomenon.

Wine production in Italy progressed rapidly during the^19th century, as winemaking and storage methods were improved and the use of corks to seal bottles and reinforced flasks made it possible to transport wine properly around the world. Names such as Chianti, Barolo and Marsala gained notoriety in Europe and beyond. A century ago, several Italian wines were already recognised as among the greatest of their type: mainly Piedmontese and Tuscan reds made from Nebbiolo and Sangiovese grapes, but also white wines, still or sparkling, dry or sweet, which gained international recognition.

Winegrowers had supplemented their local grape varieties with foreign varieties such as Cabernet, Merlot and Pinots. It was obvious then, as it is today, that the diversity of Italian climates and soils favoured different types and styles of grape varieties, and foreign consumers in both Europe and North America began to appreciate these new wines.

Then came phylloxera and other pests that devastated Europe's vineyards in^theearly^20th century. Italian winegrowers, who had worked with thousands of local grape varieties, were forced to reduce their numbers. Many opted for newly developed, more productive clones of local and foreign grape varieties. Taking advantage of the long, sunny ripening season, they forced yields, believing that there was often more profit to be made by favouring quantity over quality.

During difficult periods of war and crisis, Italy became one of the world's leading suppliers of cheap wines, often sold in containers of eccentric sizes and shapes. Although such practices were profitable for some, they nevertheless damaged the brand image of Italian wines abroad. For decades, responsible producers tried to tighten regulations and emphasise better quality. But it was only when the laws on designation of origin (denominazione d'origine) were passed in the 1960s that a new climate of dignity and confidence was established, providing the basis for what has become the "modern renaissance" of Italian wine.

Since Vernaccia di San Gimignano became the first DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata) in 1966, the list has grown to include almost 300 geographically defined appellation areas, in which the authenticity of a multitude of wines is controlled. (For more information on the Denominazione di Origine Controllata classification system, see the sections on Legislation and Quality and Appellation Designations).

DOC/DOCG (Controlled Designation of Origin/Controlled and Guaranteed Designation of Origin) wines account for less than 20 per cent of total production. After them comes a growing number of wines that fall into the recently created category, Indicazione Geografica Tipica (IGT) (Typical Geographical Indication). The typical category applies to wines that range from "locally appreciated to internationally recognised".

Despite the decline over the century, Italy still has more grape varieties planted than any other country, including local varieties and a virtually complete range of so-called international grape varieties. The number of officially approved Vitis Vinifera grape varieties runs into the hundreds, and there are even a few non-wine grape varieties or hybrids used here and there by the country's countless amateur winemakers.

This heritage of grape varieties allows Italy to produce a wider range of different wines than any other nation. Although Italy is more renowned for the ageing of its great red wines, it also tends to encourage more immediate types of rosso, including new wines (vini novelli) to be drunk during the harvest months.

Italy is also a major producer of white wines, ranging in style from light and fruity to oak-aged wines of impressive substance and intensity. Some regions are renowned for sparkling wines, either slightly sparkling (frizzante) or more effervescent (spumante), obtained either by the closed tank fermentation method or by the classic (classico) or traditional (tradizionale) method of bottle fermentation.

Without claiming any supremacy, it seems fair to say that many Italian wines are among the international elite. But perhaps most encouraging is that Italian quality production continues to develop and progress. Italians are increasingly committed to meeting the growing demand for quality wines with character at all price levels.