Definition: Málaga - 2

Málaga is a sweet fortified wine made from Moscatel, Moscatel de Alejandría and Pedro Ximénez grapes. It is produced using the same system as for sherry, known as solera (a cascade of barrels). It has a beautiful mahogany colour and aromas reminiscent of caramel, raisins and spices. There are several types of Málaga, either VDL or VDN, and of various ages:

* Málaga, aged between 6 and 24 months.

* Málaga Noble, aged 2 to 3 years.

* Málaga Añejo, aged 3 to 5 years.

* Málaga Trasañejo, over 5 years.

The history of Málaga:

It seems certain that viticulture originated in Armenia and that vineyards quickly spread to the countries bordering the Mediterranean, where the climate and soil proved conducive to its rapid expansion and flourishing. Guillén Robles, in his book Historia de Málaga y su provincia (History of Málaga and its province), explains that "the Greeks settled in Málaga and taught the indigenous people how to prune vines", which probably dates back to 600 BC, at the time of the founding of Mainake.

The first known historical evidence of wine production in Málaga dates back to the Late Roman Empire and consists of a prismatic fermentation deposit discovered in Cártama, about thirty kilometres from the capital.

During Arab rule, a fierce struggle arose between the Koranic rules prohibiting the consumption of wine and the custom of drinking it, which had become ingrained in our population. Gradually, and with many ups and downs, severe punishments (including the death penalty for drunkards) were replaced by fines (la garima), which gradually turned into taxes (qabäla) that wine merchants had to pay and which eventually became one of the state's most important sources of income. When the Catholic Monarchs reconquered Málaga in 1487, they discovered the panorama described by D. Cecilio García de la Leña in his Conversaciones históricas malagueñas (Historical Conversations of Málaga):

"The first thing our conquering Catholic Princes did to make this city happy, prosperous and powerful was to establish a Brotherhood of Winegrowers, responsible for overseeing the production of their wines. These wines were also a significant commercial commodity during the Moorish reign and a source of wealth for their vassals. The Princes knew that the vineyards would bring not only joy and opulence to their beloved people, but also significant revenue to their royal treasury, given the quantity of produce that their harvest would bring to other sectors."

Years later, on 12 January 1502, the Catholic Monarchs confirmed in Seville by royal decree the creation of the Hermandad de Viñeros [brotherhood of winegrowers], whose corporate privileges were once again ratified by Queen Joanna of Castile in 1513.

In 1791, Mr Gálvez, Spanish ambassador to Moscow, presented the Tsarina and Empress of Russia, Catherine II, with several cases of Málaga wine, which she enjoyed so much that she abolished taxes on all Málaga wines controlled by the Hermandad de Viñeros entering her Empire.

The Hermandad de Viñeros still exists today in its corporate form within the Consejo Regulador and in its religious form in the Illustrious Ancient and Venerable Sacramental Brotherhood of Nostro Padre Jesús Nazareno a Viñeros, Ntra Señora del Traspaso y Soledad de Viñeros de San Lorenzo Mártin.

1806 saw the creation by Royal Decree of the Casa y Compañía de Comercio de Viñeros [House and Company of Wine Traders] of Málaga, which provided for "the introduction of marks that are difficult to forge on the pots, crates or bales containing the fruit shipped by the Company, so as to prevent, as far as possible, any adulteration of the latter. Two intelligent individuals shall be elected to ensure that the wines achieve the highest possible quality."

On 1 July 1900, the Regulations of the Cooperative Association of Málaga Wine Exporters were established to protect the general interests of the wine trade by issuing certificates, appointing arbitrators and experts and, above all, guaranteeing the legitimacy of the wines they exported by means of their seal of origin.

At the request of the Málaga wine growers' and merchants' cooperatives, a Regulatory Council was established on 8 September 1933, whose Regulations, approved on 20 October 1937, remained in force until 21 December. All wines protected by the Málaga Designation of Origin must undergo the relevant analysis and be evaluated by the Qualification Committee, on the basis of which the Council will decide whether or not to issue the certificate and deliver the numbered guarantee stamps.

In 1999, the third Regulations of the Málaga Designation of Origin were published by order of the Regional Ministry of Agriculture and Fisheries on 24 July.

The fourth regulation was published on 9 January 2001 in the Official Gazette of the Junta de Andalucía and recognises the Sierras de Málaga PDO, with the regulatory council now called the Consejo Regulador de las Denominaciones de Origen 'Málaga' y 'Sierras de Málaga'. This latest regulation was ratified by the Ministry of Agriculture, Fisheries and Food on 22 November 2001 and published in the Spanish Official State Gazette on 10 December of the same year.

Casa del Guardia - Málaga Wine:

The following wines are protected by the designations of origin "Málaga" and "Sierras de Málaga":

The following wines are entitled to the "Málaga" DO:

Sweet wines, from 15% vol. to 22% vol.

Natural sweet wines, from 13% vol. made from very ripe grapes and whose alcohol is derived entirely from fermentation.

The following wines are entitled to the "Sierras de Málaga" designation of origin:

White, rosé and red wines with an alcohol content of less than 15% ABV.

Types of wines with the "MÁLAGA" AOC:

Wines protected by the "Málaga" Designation of Origin are classified as:

fortified wines, which include naturally sweet wines and naturally sweet wines.

The name of a variety may be used provided that the wine has been made with at least 85% of grapes of that variety, after deducting the quantity of products used for possible sweetening.

Sweet wines:

A sweet wine is a wine made from the "Pero Ximén" and/or "Moscatel" varieties in accordance with local traditions, faithful and consistent, with the addition of wine alcohol during its production and with an actual alcoholic strength by volume of between 15% vol. minimum and 22% vol. and a total alcoholic strength by volume of at least 17.5% vol., with the exception of dry sweet wines, for which the minimum total alcoholic strength by volume may be 15% vol.

Concentrated musts and dry wine from the 'Doradilla', 'Lairen' and 'Romé' varieties may also be used in the composition of these wines, provided that they do not represent more than 30% of the total final product.

Sweet liqueur wines shall be composed mainly (more than 50%) of sweet wine, the characteristics of which are defined in Article 13 of the Regulation, and shall also contain a minimum of 4% vol. of alcohol acquired naturally during fermentation.

Natural sweet wine:

This natural sweet wine is obtained using the technique described in Article 13.1.1 c) of the regulations.

Naturally sweet wine:

This wine is produced using the technique described in Article 13.2 of the regulations.

Designation of protected wines

All protected wines shall undergo a period of ageing and shall obtain the designation:

Designation and average ageing period:

Málaga, from six to 24 months,

Málaga Noble, from two to three years,

Málaga Añejo, from two to five years,

Málaga Trasañejo, more than five years,

Notwithstanding the above, Pero Ximén and/or Moscatel white wines, produced without the addition of concentrated must, may be marketed without undergoing ageing and maturing processes and will bear the designation "Málaga Pálido".

The designations of protected wines are determined according to their sugar content:

Protected wines may be sweet (when the sugar content is greater than 45 g/l), semi-sweet (sugar content between 12 and 45 g/l), semi-dry (sugar content between 4 and 12 g/l) and dry (sugar content less than 4 g/l).

The traditional terms that may be used for wines protected by the Málaga Designation of Origin, in addition to those defined above and others that establish the characteristics of the product, are as follows:

'Lágrima ': this is wine made exclusively from the must obtained from the grapes after pressing, without any mechanical pressure. If these wines are aged for more than two years, they may be designated 'Lacrimae Christi'.

" Pajarete ": this is a sweet wine, or naturally sweet wine with a total sugar content of between 45 and 140 g/l, produced without the addition of concentrated must, aged for a period of time and with an amber to dark amber colour.

Depending on the variety used:

" Pero Ximén " or " Pedro Ximénez ": these are wines produced from the grape variety of the same name.

" Moscatel ": these are wines produced from the grape variety of the same name.

Depending on their colour

" Dorado " or " Golden ": this is a sweet wine, produced without the addition of concentrated must, naturally sweet or naturally sweet, aged for a period of time. Rojo dorado" or "Rot gold" [golden red]: this is a sweet wine, aged and obtained by adding concentrated must, up to 5% vol.

" Oscuro " or " Brown ": this is a sweet wine, aged and obtained by adding concentrated must, up to 5 to 10% vol.

" Colour ": this is a sweet wine that has undergone a period of ageing and is obtained by adding concentrated must of 10 to 15% ABV.

" Negro " or " Dunkel " [dark]: this is a sweet wine that has undergone a period of ageing and is obtained by adding concentrated must of more than 15% ABV.

Depending on their sugar content

" Dulce Crema " or " Cream " [sweet cream]: this is a sweet wine, or naturally sweet wine with a sugar content of between 100 and 140 g/l, aged and with a colour that can vary from amber to dark amber.

" Dry Pale " or " Pale Dry ": this is a sweet wine, produced without the addition of concentrated must, with a total sugar content of less than 45 g/l.

" Pale Cream ": this is a sweet wine, produced without the addition of concentrated must, a naturally sweet wine or a naturally sweet wine with a total sugar content of less than 45 g/l.

" Sweet ": this refers to sweet wine, or naturally sweet wine with a sugar content of more than 140 g/l, subject to a period of ageing and with a colour that can vary from amber to black.

Wines protected by the "Vino Maestro" and "Vino Tierno" designations are produced using the technique described in Article 13 of the regulations.

Types of "Sierras de Málaga" AOC wines:

white: wines with pale yellow colours, varietal aromas, elegant and clean, with a fruity, fresh flavour and a touch of acidity;

red: full-bodied, well-structured wines, dominated by mineral flavours and aromas from the terroir;

Málaga wine, an art form - literature, music, painting, labels:

Málaga wine has historically been linked to the arts. Its uniqueness and noble ancestry have earned it numerous literary references. Written references to wines produced in the mild climate of Málaga date back to Roman times, but it was with the arrival of the Muslims in this paradise, Málaga, also known by its poets as the crown of the moon, a hidden treasure or the city of health, that wine became a source of literary inspiration for many authors. Literature is not the only artistic discipline in which we find references to Málaga wine. Music and painting also see our wine as worthy of elevation to the category of art.

Gioacchino Rossini's opera "La Cenerentolla" (1817) says in Scene 10:

Premio bellísimo di piastre sedici

A chi più Málaga

Si beberá.

The label is another great form of expression associated with wine. In Málaga, the label has always been extraordinarily beautiful. The high lithographic quality and artistic level of the label, combining advertising and painting, make the old prints real works of art.

Tasting and consumption:

Málaga wine offers a wide range of sensations when tasted. The vast array of colours, aromas and flavours makes Málaga wine intriguing, as each Málaga wine is a new discovery. Colours ranging from yellow to black, floral and fruity aromas for the youngest wines, and complex aromas for older wines (añejos and trasañejos), and flavours ranging from the most varietal to those specific to very old wines, from dry wines to sweet wines, allow us to choose a Málaga wine to suit our mood at any given moment.

In cooking, Málaga wine brings all its organoleptic complexity to bear, allowing us to create dishes that are veritable feasts. The creation of cocktails and the manufacture of ice creams are other recommended gastronomic uses for Málaga wine.

The white, red and rosé wines of the Sierras de Málaga Designation of Origin complete Málaga's wine offering, with natural wines and wines offering a wide range of aromas.

Tasting Málaga DO wines:

Málaga pálido

Colour: yellow, straw yellow.

Aroma: Varietal (Moscatel, Pero Ximén), clean, elegant and fruity.

Flavour: dry, semi-dry, semi-sweet or sweet, flavourful, fruity, with bitter notes.

Aged wines: Málaga, Málaga noble, Málaga añejo and Málaga transañejo:

The longer the ageing process, the greater the intensity and complexity of the wine's sensations.

Colour: varies from yellow to black, including mahogany, amber, gold, golden red and dark red. A greenish-yellow iridescence is typical.

Aroma: aromas of candied fruit and sweet fruit, stewed fruit, coffee, liquorice, plum, supple, silky, glyceride. The longer the wine is aged, the more notes of toasted aldehydes, pastries, old lees, wood, citrus, ketones, caramel and dried fruit (hazelnut, walnut, almond) emerge.

Flavour: dry, semi-dry, semi-sweet or sweet, more or less dense depending on ageing, with notes of hazelnut and toasted caramel, ketones, full-bodied, persistent and flavourful.

Tasting and consumption of AOC "Sierras de Málaga" wines:

Whites: pale yellow wines with varietal aromas, elegant and clean, with a fruity, fresh flavour and a touch of acidity.

Reds: full-bodied, well-structured wines with predominant mineral flavours and aromas from the terroir.

Málaga wine routes:

Wine is a pleasant accompaniment to our walks and excursions. Many bodegas organise tours of their facilities and numerous taverns serve our wines, AOC Málaga wines, promoting them to consumers. Don't miss a visit to the Museo del Vino (Wine Museum) in Ojén which, together with the future Málaga Wine Museum, traces the centuries-old tradition of our wines.

Book titles:

Málaga, Cardinal of wines.

In 1224, the King of France, Philip Augustus, organised "the battle of the wines". The most prestigious wines of the time were represented at this event, which can be considered the first wine tasting competition in history.

Our region was also represented and finished in a good position: Málaga wine was named Cardinal of Wines.

Málaga wines in Russia

Russia has traditionally been a major consumer of Málaga wines. Our wines were exported to noble families and, in particular, to the imperial family, among whom they enjoyed great renown.

As recounted in a document in the possession of the Regulatory Council: "In 1791, Mr Gálvez, Spanish ambassador to Moscow, presented the Tsarina and Empress of Russia, Catherine II, with several cases of Málaga wines, which she enjoyed so much that she abolished taxes on all Málaga wines controlled by the Hermandad de Viñeros entering her Empire ."

First Regulatory Council

On 8 September 1933, a regulatory council for the Málaga designation of origin was created at the request of the Málaga wine cooperatives and merchants, whose first regulations were approved on 20 October 1937. These regulations remained in force until 21 December 1976.

One, two, three...

Here is one of the questions asked to participants in this very famous TVE quiz show: "What wines were served at the wedding of King Alfonso XIII?" When the participants failed to answer, the presenter told them that they were wines from Málaga and Jerez.

Legend

According to legend, Peter, son of Simens, a German, brought a vine shoot from the banks of the Rhine and planted it on land in Málaga. This is how the Pero Ximén variety came into being. All this is recounted in Merula's Cosmografía [Cosmography], published in 1636. German (Berkenmeyer) and Spanish (Masdeu) geographers agree with this account.

However, José Garijo asserts that it is more likely that Pero Ximén was a Christian farmer from the late 15th or early 16th century who gave his name to the variety. The same author believes that "it could be said that all Pedro Ximén vines outside the province of Málaga originate from Málaga vines", taking into account the references made by Cecilio García de la Leña in 1792.

Málaga wine for a speech - 06.10.2000

In a publication bringing together the complete works of D. Antonio Canovas del Castillo for the first time, the biographical note mentions that he used to drink a MÁLAGA before each speech "to enliven his speech".

The Málaga spoon

A silver instrument used to appreciate the colour of wine. The handle of the spoon is hollow and is inserted perpendicularly into the barrel to extract the wine. Once the spoon is full, it is rotated and the liquid slides down to the concave part of the spoon, where the wine taster can appreciate the different tones produced by the different colour concentrations. It is a unique instrument in the world.