Definition: Hungary - Tokaj

The Tokaj vineyard is located approximately 200 km (125 miles) north-east of Budapest (the capital) and close to the Slovakian and Ukrainian borders.
The vast majority of the region's soils are calcareous. However, Hétszõlõ, the southernmost property located directly on Mount Tokaj, benefits from "loess" soil. This unique soil allows Hétszõlõ to produce rounder, more fragrant wines with lower acidity.
The climate is continental: cold winters (often between -10 and -15°C), hot summers (temperatures can reach 35-40°C) and long, sunny, dry autumns.
In Alsace (France), the term "Tokay" (with a y) was used as a brand name for dry white wine produced from the Pinot Gris grape variety. However, to avoid confusion, Alsatian producers will no longer be allowed to use this term from 2007 onwards.

Hétszölö In Hungarian - Literally "Seven Vines" because the estate was created in 1502 by bringing together seven plots of land. Pronounced: "het - seu - leu". Hétszõlõ was owned by the Austro-Hungarian Empire from 1711 to 1918. When the Emperor of Austria was proclaimed King of Hungary in 1867, the estate was considered an "Imperial Estate".

Aszú The term "Aszú" literally means "dried grape". During the heat of autumn, the berries "cook" and "botrytis cinerea" (noble rot) begins the process of concentrating sugar and reducing the natural acidity level. The grapes that have lost their water content are thus called "Aszú" (dry).
The "Aszú" berries are pressed into a paste. This paste is added to the must of Furmint, Harslevelü and Muscat grapes. The higher the percentage of "Aszú" paste, the more concentrated the wine will be. The mixture is then fermented, filtered and aged in barrels for two years. Aszú wines have always been traditionally considered a remedy for certain illnesses. They were even sold in pharmacies. Legend also has it that Aszú wines have aphrodisiac properties. Aszú wines are similar to overripe and botrytised wines, such as Sauternes. Yes, because in both cases they are sweet wines. However, these wines are very different in style. Aszú wines have higher acidity, which gives them more freshness on the palate.
The quantities produced vary from year to year, but the average volumes produced per type of wine can be estimated as follows:
Furmint Dry 24,000 bottles
Late Harvest 36,000 bottles
3 puttonyos 24,000 bottles
4 puttonyos 18,000 bottles
5 puttonyos 18,000 bottles
6 puttonyos 6,000 - 12,000 bottles
Eszencia 200 - 300 bottles
The total production of the Tokaj region can be estimated at an average of 5,000 hectolitres of sweet wine each year. This is a sweet white wine. The word "Fordítás" comes from the verb "Fordit", which means "to pour over". The marc used to make Aszú is "resurrected" by adding fresh must. This second fermentation produces Tokaj Fordítás. The wines are aged like "Aszú" wines in oak barrels in the estate's underground cellars for a period of two years.
In Hungary, Aszú wines are traditionally consumed at the end of the evening or as an aperitif. However, they also pair well with foie gras, game, blue cheeses and desserts. It should be noted that an opened bottle can be stored in the refrigerator for several weeks without spoiling. The ideal serving temperature is between 10 and 12°C.
Like all sweet wines, Late Harvest is delicious as an aperitif but also pairs well with poultry, white meat and game. It is also a delight with fruit tarts! Best served at 10-12°C.
Delicious as an aperitif, Furmint enhances roast poultry, white meats and game.
Best served at 10-12°C.
An official classification existed between the 18th century and approximately 1914. There is no longer an official classification. The Imperial Estate Hétszõlõ was a "1st Grand Cru Classé" (Primae Classes), the highest classification.
Between 60 and 70 estates produce and bottle Tokaj wines each year.
The total area of the vineyard is 6,000 hectares spread over 26 municipalities.
Hétszõlõ, a 45-hectare estate, is one of the most important estates, located in the municipality of Tokaj.

Hungary (grape varieties) Furmint and Harslevelü are the two main grape varieties. Muscat is also found here, but in very small proportions. Furmint is the most suitable grape variety for making Aszú wines. The berries are more acidic and more susceptible to botrytis; they ripen later. Harslevelü, with smaller berries, is more aromatic and less acidic. In all cases, it is a subtle blend of these two grape varieties that gives Aszú wines their splendour and complexity.

Specific terms:
Puttony - puttonyos A "puttony" is a basket containing 30 kg of "aszú" grapes. It is also the unit of measurement used to define the sugar content of "Aszú" wines. The minimum is 3 puttonyos and the maximum is 6 puttonyos. The higher the number of "puttonyos", the sweeter the wine. Above 6 puttonyos, there is also "Aszú Eszencia" and then "Eszencia". The minimum residual sugar content is:
- 3 puttonyos 60 g/l
- 4 puttonyos 90 g/l
- 5 puttonyos 120 g/l
- 6 puttonyos 150 g/l

Aszú Eszencia This wine can be unofficially considered a 7 puttonyos. It is still a wine (10-13% alcohol), with a minimum of 180 g/l residual sugar. In the best estates, thanks to their exposure, soil and the care taken in the vineyard, "Aszú" wines can be produced every year. However, the volumes produced and the level of sugar concentration can vary from year to year. "Aszú" wines are aged in barrels for a minimum legal period of 2 years.

Eszencia A true nectar! Made exclusively from botrytised grapes, pressed solely by gravity and produced in very limited quantities. It is not a "wine" as the alcohol content is only 4 to 5%. The minimum residual sugar content is 450 g/l. Ideally yes, but nature sees it differently. In some years, the sugar concentration of the grapes is insufficient to produce a "6 puttonyos" (4 years for "Aszú Eszencia"). The barrels are generally between 1 and 4 years old. The wines are aged in narrow cellars dug into volcanic rock. The temperature there is a constant 10°C, and the air is purified and recycled naturally by air vents called "soul holes". The presence of a mould covering the walls (cladosporium cellare) acts as a filter. These cellars offer ideal conditions for ageing wines.
See also the entry on Hungary.
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