Definition: Hunter Valley

An Australian wine region that accounts for less than 3% of national production, Hunter Valley owes its fame to historical reasons and has maintained its reputation thanks to the quality of its wines. It was here that Australian viticulture began around 1820. In fact, it was in 1791 that the very first vines were imported to Australia, planted by Governor Philip at Government House, Parramatta. But it is James Busby, one of the first winegrowers in Hunter Valley, who is credited with playing a key role in the development of viticulture in Australia, both through his writings and his actions. In 1832, he imported numerous European grape varieties. It is fondly remembered how generously he took cuttings from his own vines and, followed in this by a few already established winegrowers, distributed some 20,000 vines to newcomers to the region. His Kirkton estate inspired many winegrowers of the time. Among them was a certain Dr Lindeman, who immigrated in 1840 and founded his Cawarra Estate in 1843 in Gresford. However, the climate is not ideal: the drought is only interrupted by torrential rains, unfortunately at the time of the harvest. The soils, generally too clayey and poorly drained, can be interesting in places, consisting of volcanic deposits here and marine deposits there. The region did not suffer from phylloxera, but it was severely affected by mildew in 1917. The reds have a clear garnet colour, are very vinous, generally well-balanced, and age very well. Syrah (Shiraz) is the main red grape variety. Here, it produces very colourful, full-bodied and heady wines. With little in common with the wines of the Rhône Valley, they also differ from other Australian wines in that they are less fruity, with secondary aromas – notably leather, but also earth, coffee and chocolate – predominating. These are wines with very long ageing potential, improving for 10 years or more. However, growing demand for more supple, easier-drinking wines is leading to diversification in styles, and Hunter Valley is no longer what it used to be. The valley is trying to find its identity, and we have seen the emergence of Pinot Noir and, above all, Cabernet Sauvignon wines that are supple and fruity and can be enjoyed young. Among the white wines, Sémillon (which was long known as "Riesling") is the most interesting. Contrary to general practice in Australia, it does not come into contact with wood. When young, it is thin and slightly vegetal. It needs to be aged for at least four years, and only reveals its full splendour after 10, or even 15 or 20 years. It then becomes a great wine, full-bodied, opulent and rich, yet dry (and therefore not comparable to the sweet wines of our South-West), still remarkably raisined, particularly aromatic, with a lingering taste of honey or roasted hazelnuts. Chardonnay is now more widespread than Sémillon. It produces rich, ripe, full-bodied wines with intense flavours, which are very drinkable when young, but are not among the best in the country. The heart of the district is Pokolbin, between Cessnock and Branxton, a two-hour drive north of Sydney and 60 kilometres west of Newcastle. The region tended to rest on its laurels in the 1970s, so the development of new vineyards in the upper Hunter Valley, with winemakers using modern methods and keen to satisfy the public at reasonable prices, came at just the right time to give the whole valley a boost. However, demand is so high that much of the wine sold here actually comes from other regions. Despite the modesty and simplicity of the cellars, this is not the place to find the best value for money.