Definition: Decanting or aerating wine

When, how and why?

When they are not forgotten in a cupboard, wine decanters are used as decorative objects or vases for flowers, and all too rarely fulfil their primary function. Yet there are many occasions when they are appropriate. A wine decanter is used to "decant" or "aerate" wine. In both cases, the wine is poured into a decanter. As it flows and then rests in the decanter, it is aerated and oxygenated. Over time, its bouquet becomes more intense and complex, as do its colour and taste. Its tannins soften, and it gains in roundness and smoothness. However, if exposed to air for too long, wine oxidises and turns brown. This alters its taste and aroma.

Aerating or separating the wine from its sediment:

Wine is said to have been decanted if it is not served immediately after being poured into a decanter. This process involves gently pouring an old vintage into a decanter to remove its sediment (colourless tartaric acid crystals for white wines, tannins and pigments for red wines).

Wines made using modern processes are less prone to sediment formation. Some wines do not tolerate being left in a decanter for long periods of time. It is therefore advisable to decant them and drink them fairly quickly. This is the case for many grape varieties, including white wines, sweet wines, some young and fruity red wines and even some champagnes. The more concentrated and robust a young red wine is, the more it will benefit from aeration in a decanter. Powerful and generous red wines, served before they have reached their optimal maturity, will gain in aroma, finesse and complexity. This type of aeration is generally used far too rarely. On the other hand, very old, delicate wines should not be decanted. Oxygenation would be a real shock that could be fatal for these old and delicate wines. So all young wines, whether red or white, will benefit from decanting. The denser the substance, the more tannic the structure and the more beneficial the aeration will be.

However, some wines may react badly to aeration, particularly sulphur-free wines that are sensitive to oxidation. On the other hand, decanting Burgundy wines is a difficult subject, so caution is advised.

The case of older wines, aged 10 years or more, is more delicate and must be treated on a case-by-case basis. Some will benefit from aeration, others will not, and some will even collapse. The phenomenon of reduction further complicates the situation and multiplies the possible scenarios. Unless you know in advance that the wine will still be particularly present, it is probably safer not to decant in advance and to monitor its development during the meal.

Instructions for use:

Before decanting the wine, pay particular attention to its style and age, especially if it is an old vintage with sediment. Tilt the bottle and decanter as horizontally as possible and pour the wine slowly. As soon as the first particles appear at the neck of the bottle, stop the process. This should preferably be done in optimal lighting conditions – some wine lovers place a candle or torch under the bottle – some wine lovers place a candle or torch under the bottle, which is less romantic but does not heat the wine and does not smell when you blow it out! If the wine is young and lively and its bouquet still needs to be oxygenated, the bottle can be emptied into the decanter in an almost vertical position. The wine then rushes in, splashes the sides and aerates further. This technique is called "decanting wine". It releases hidden aromas, opens up the wine, enlivens it and makes it more accessible on the palate. If you are not sure you will drink all the wine, leave a little in the bottle. Kept in a cool place, it will keep better until the next day. After emptying the carafe, wash it with hot water, using a bottle brush if necessary. If you don't have time to do this straight away, fill it with water to prevent wine residue from drying on the bottom. Stubborn stains can be easily removed with an effervescent denture cleaning tablet (such as Kukident, Corega Tabs, etc.) placed in the carafe with a little water (about a hand's width), not too much to maintain enough concentration of the anti-limescale product, which you will stir for long enough to allow it to act on the entire inner surface of the carafe. Remember to rinse it thoroughly afterwards (mint taste) and dry it upside down on the dish rack or on a special stand called a carafe drainer. Don't forget to wash and dry it on the outside if you want it to shine.

Decanting time:

It is difficult to define an ideal decanting time for all wines. Each wine is unique. The amount of time a wine needs to breathe depends more on its character than its origin.

Aromatic dry white wines and sweet white wines (decanted while cool into a chilled decanter, then kept cool until served): approximately 1 hour.

Sweet red wines: 1 to 3 hours.

Light red wines: decant (do not leave to rest).

Medium-bodied red wines: approximately 1 hour.

Heavy red wines: 1 to 3 hours.

Some exceptional vintages will benefit from longer aeration. However, it is more likely that you will aerate a wine that does not require it for too long than that you will aerate an excellent vintage insufficiently.

Whether or not a decanter has a stopper is of little importance, unless you place your decanter outside (the wind tends to disperse the aromas). On the other hand, decanters that pour wine without dripping are unfortunately few and far between. Only exceptional dexterity can prevent this. Pour with one hand and wipe with a white napkin in the other.

Narrow-shaped decanters are used for decanting (filtering out sediment). Wide, bulbous decanters are used for oxygenation. The duck-shaped wine carafe is a fine example. In addition to showcasing wines both visually and on the palate, this carafe has the advantage of a fairly central centre of gravity, making it easier to pour with less effort and greater precision, without spilling a drop, and easier to place in the refrigerator when decanting white wine, for example.

If you don't have a decanter, simply decanting the wine into another bottle will have the same beneficial effects, as aeration occurs mainly during the decanting process. It is even possible to decant the wine a second time to return it to its original bottle. The other bottle must, of course, be perfectly clean and the waiting time must be doubled or tripled if the wine is at the level of the neck. If the cork is replaced, the decanting can even be done 12 or 24 hours before tasting.

A carafe stored in a warm place absorbs this heat and transfers it to the wine. Especially in summer, it is essential to chill your carafe well, if possible in the refrigerator.

Partial source: Robert Schlag, oenologist, Coop Vins and Philippe Margot.