Definition: Decanting or aerating 1

Decanting or filtering – narrow shape. Aeration or oxygenation – wide shape.

Freed from their narrow bottles like the genie escaping from Aladdin's lamp, many wines finally unfold at ease in a carafe. Only very mature wines are an exception, as fresh air can be detrimental to them. In a technical book for knowledgeable amateurs, we find the following advice: "Make sure the container is spotlessly clean and odour-free. Uncork the bottle, taking care not to make any sudden movements, wipe the neck with a towel and pour the contents of the bottle evenly and continuously into the decanter, so as not to agitate the wine. Is this the right method? Not necessarily. If you follow these instructions to the letter and forget to check whether the wine has any faults, your decanter may end up with a cork taint! And this will not go away, even after prolonged aeration. Apart from this case, decanting wine can do it a lot of good. For example, a young wine that is still a little closed and unappealing will gain vitality once it comes into contact with oxygen. Good red wines, especially those that are fairly rich in tannins, benefit from being decanted as they will be much more accessible. Some wines can even be decanted twelve hours before serving, or even the day before. Just remember to cover the decanter with a clean cloth and be patient.

Not just for red wines

Contrary to popular belief, this procedure is not reserved for red wines alone; it also benefits white wines. Even if they are very young, they benefit from being decanted, such as a barrel-aged Chardonnay, a dry and spicy Riesling from Germany or Austria, or the Austrian speciality, Grüner Veltliner. A few years ago, it was no coincidence that winegrowers in the Wachau wine region of Lower Austria had their own special carafe made. More slender than the bulbous decanters used for red wines, they not only promote the development of aromas, but can also eliminate some youthful flaws that are irritating to the nose, caused by very reductive ageing in vats or spontaneous fermentation. When decanting, these "youthful mercaptans" generally evaporate. With more mature wines, however, greater caution is required. In this case, a preliminary tasting is essential. If you find that the wine seems fragile, you should refrain from decanting it. Oxygenation can rob it of its last breath of life before the bottle is even empty. At most, mature red wines and port wines can be decanted just before serving in order to separate them from the sediment that has built up over the years at the bottom of the bottle. Some wine lovers perform this ritual by candlelight, less for romantic reasons than out of necessity, as this allows them to see the sediment through the neck of the bottle and avoid pouring it into the decanter. A simple torch will suffice, with the added advantage of not giving off any odour when switched off!

In practice - White wine also likes oxygenation

Catherine Thévenot has worked as a sommelier at Le Schiffchen in Düsseldorf and the Waldhotel Sonora in Dreis, Rhineland-Palatinate, among others. She is accustomed to decanting white wine. "In fact, in the restaurant business, we have gotten into the habit of decanting white wines. Customers are often taken aback, but so far, everyone has been convinced by the result. Powerful, concentrated white wines open up immediately thanks to the oxygen they receive when the liquid is transferred from the bottle to the decanter. This is why it is essential to decant a great Burgundy before serving, but not only Burgundies. I also aerate all rich, concentrated German Pinots, especially if they have been aged in barrels. A Grand Cru, and even more so a Riesling, always benefits from being allowed to breathe a little before serving.

In certain isolated cases, you may hesitate to decant your wine. In this type of situation, those who know their wines well will have a clear advantage. If the wine is closed and unappealing, when it usually has a rather refined bouquet, decanting is often useful. For white wines, use a wide decanter, and it may be a good idea to place them in an ice bucket, taking care to remove them in time. I would not decant white wines with particularly pronounced fruitiness. Caution is also required with older white wines: too much oxygen and they will lose their flavour immediately. Smell the wine beforehand; if you detect notes of maturity and petrol, serve it immediately without decanting.

My opinion - A timeless object

The decanter has never gone out of fashion: even the Romans practised the technique of aeration when serving wine. For over 250 years, the glass decanter without handles has been the preferred style. Its shape, decoration and finish have varied over the years, but the object itself has remained largely the same. Any container can be used as a decanter, provided it is made of a neutral material that does not cause reactions and offers enough space for the wine to come into contact with the ambient air. Many decanters are designed so that the contents of a bottle can be spread over the widest possible area.

There is a wide variety of shapes, designs and models, as well as price categories. The average housewife will readily admit that for everyday use, the "discount" alternative will do just fine: quick to wash, easy to handle, with no need for tedious cleaning and drying. For special occasions, she will bring out the more stylish, higher-quality models. She will then be able to proudly present her guests with her great-grandfather's precious carafe, as antique models are particularly sought after. Only the aftermath of the party is disappointing, as cleaning is no easy task and requires all the ingenuity of the housewife before she can display it ostentatiously on the antique chest of drawers or in a glass-fronted cabinet.

These useful containers are, in any case, a delight for wine lovers. The aesthetics of the container are as pleasing to the eye as the contents are to the palate. The celebration of the act – uncorking the bottle, delicately pouring the wine into the decanter, the anticipation and joy until the moment the wine is poured into the glass – never loses its charm. A true wine lover cannot deny themselves this sensual aspect of oxygenation. See also "Decanting or aerating wine", "Decanting old wines", "Decanting or aerating?".

Source: Vinum – Siglinde Hiestand.