Definition: Canada

- The Ontario Ministry of Agriculture created the Vineland Research Station, where more than 300 wine grape varieties have been tested.

- Winemaking techniques are advancing here as elsewhere.

- The government recently decided to promote the image of Canadian wine to the public

the public, an effort that should have a positive impact on the products.

Although generally unfavourable, the climate is ideal for ice wine: Ontario ice wine is considered the best in the world!

Constraints on marketing:

- Only winemakers themselves can market their wines.

- Except in Ontario, winemakers can only sell their wine to the Liquor Control Board

Alcohols (SAQ), which has a monopoly on retail sales. In Ontario, they can

sell either to the Control Board or directly to consumers, but in this case

through a limited number of co-operatively run shops.

Vintners Quality Alliance:

Ontario, Nova Scotia, and British Columbia have an appellation of origin system: the VQA (Vintners Quality Alliance). To be eligible for the VQA label, a wine must be made from 100% authorised grape varieties, and the grapes must come exclusively from designated areas. In addition, the VQA imposes minimum sugar levels.

British Columbia

Two areas in British Columbia have been designated:

Okanagan Valley and Similkameen Valley.

In central British Columbia, the Okanagan Valley, south of Okanagan Lake, is home to a 6,500-hectare vineyard, which benefits from a dry climate, tempered by the proximity of the lake. The lack of rainfall is compensated for by irrigation. It produces light reds and German-style whites. Encouraging results have been obtained from late harvests of Chardonnay, Okanagan Riesling (unrelated to Rhine Riesling), Seyval and Gewurztraminer.

Claremont and Inniskilin are among the best producers (Chenin, Pinot Blanc, Gewurztraminer).

Ontario

Most of the region's 13,000 hectares are concentrated on the Niagara Peninsula, which has a relatively temperate climate thanks to the presence of the Great Lakes. Moderate rainfall, hot summers and long autumns are climatic factors that favour the production of adequately ripened grapes. Labrusca-type grape varieties produce light reds, but especially dry, fresh whites. They are gradually giving way to Chardonnay and Riesling, as well as French hybrids such as Seyval, Maréchal Foch (a hybrid of Pinot Noir and Gamay) and Chaunac (which produces dark, full-bodied wines).

The VQA distinguishes between two categories: 1) provincial designation 2) geographical designation.

Provincial designation:

wines bear the designation "Ontario". Varietal wines must contain at least 75% of the specified grape variety and exhibit the characteristics of that variety. They are monitored by a group of independent experts.

Geographical designation:

Three areas in Ontario have been designated (Designated Viticultural Areas): Niagara Peninsula; Erie North Shore; Pelee Island.

Wines from these three appellations must comply with the regulations applicable to the main designation. In addition, they must comply with more stringent rules:

- they must be made exclusively from noble European grape varieties such as Chardonnay, Riesling,

- Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, etc.;

- have a minimum sugar content;

- at the top of the hierarchy, if the wine bears the name of a vineyard, or if the words "estate bottled"

(bottled at the estate) appears on the label, VQA specifies that 100% of the grapes

come from that vineyard and that they were harvested at maturity;

- Each VQA wine has been blind tasted by experts approved by the

Ontario Liquor Control Board. The VQA Gold Medal is the highest local distinction.

Best producers:

Stoney Ridge, for its Chardonnay and floral Dry Riesling.

Hillebrand Estates, in Niagara-on-the-Lake, for its dry, full-bodied Chardonnay, aged in oak; Riesling and late harvest Vidal.

Inniskillin, in Niagara Falls, known for its icewine, reserve Chardonnay, Maréchal Foch, Riesling, Gewurztraminer, Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot. The reserve Pinot Noir is one of Canada's finest reds.

Henry of Pelham, in St. Catharines, for its barrel-aged Chardonnay, Merlot and Riesling.

Marynissen, in Niagara-on-the-Lake, for its Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon "Lot 66".

Cave Spring for its Chardonnay and Riesling.

Ontario ice wine:

Ice wine can only be produced during very harsh winters. It was discovered accidentally by winemakers in Franconia (Germany) during the winter of 1794. In Ontario, such harsh winters occur year after year. The frozen grapes are harvested when the temperature does not exceed -7°C. The juice must be pressed while the grapes are still frozen. As grapes contain 80% water, this method removes most of the water, leaving only a concentrated juice. Obviously, the resulting wine is expensive: between 32 and 50 Canadian dollars for a half-bottle. These prices are justified by the very low yield and the risks incurred by the winegrower: rain causing rot, hail, birds and other animals fond of grapes, and the difficulty of vinification (the grapes must be processed before they thaw).But the result is worth it: a relatively low-alcohol nectar, sweet as honey, with flavours of peach and apricot, and a fresh finish reminiscent of orange, leaving the mouth feeling cool. Currently, with 20 producers, Ontario is establishing itself as the leading and best producer of ice wines.In 1991, 12 Ontario ice wines were presented at Intervin and all won gold medals. No other ice wine, from anywhere else, won a gold medal. Ontario ice wines are made from Riesling and Vidal, and sometimes Traminer. Experience has shown that thick-skinned Vidal and Riesling are the most suitable grape varieties for this type of production in Ontario. Vidal wine, which is generally rounder and sweeter than Riesling, can be aged for 7 to 10 years. Riesling requires longer waiting time, but can also be aged for longer.

Two styles are beginning to emerge:

1 Elegance and refinement, with an emphasis on fruit and acidity. Examples: Cave Spring, Inniskillin, Vineland Estates, Henry of Pelham, and the recent Leblanc Estate.

2 A more intense fruity profile, with hints of vanilla and tropical fruits (mango, passion fruit). Examples: Stoney Ridge with its "Riesling Traminer Icewine," Hillebrand, Reif (Riesling, Vidal), and Konzelmann (Vidal).

Nova Scotia

Due to difficult climatic conditions, this small vineyard of about 60 hectares, located in the far east of Canada, still only produces decent wines, nothing more. In Nova Scotia's two wine-growing areas, the Annapolis Valley and the Northumberland Strait, winemakers do their best with hybrid grape varieties, although some producers also grow Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc and Riesling. But if Canada's various vineyards have managed to surprise wine lovers over the past two decades, why shouldn't this one? Let's give it time.

Quebec

Considered the youngest wine region in the world, Quebec has 36 commercial producers out of a total of 71 vineyards (1996). Despite this small number of producers and a very short growing season, some good wines are produced here. A maximum of 150 hectares (1999) are planted with vines, producing an average of 300,000 bottles per year. Of this number, 80% are produced by three major vineyards (the Orpailleur and Cep d'Argent vineyards produce 210,000 bottles, while Dietrich-Jooss produces 40,000).

There are five wine-producing regions in Quebec: Châteauguay, Richelieu, Yamaska, Estrie and Quebec City. In this province, where winters are harsh (the mercury sometimes drops to 30°C below zero) and summers are hot and humid, winegrowers have only six months to do what others do in 11 or 12 months. In November, they must cover the vines with earth so that snow accumulates and protects them from frost. Only a few hectares of vines escape this process. Of course, the grape varieties selected in this part of the world must have a short growing season and good resistance to cold. Quebec mainly produces lively white wines, sparkling wines, a few red and rosé wines, and some ice wines.

Since the 1998 vintage, 15% of the wine produced outside Quebec can be used in the blend. Quebec production is not subject to the VQA system.