Definition: Xérès Montilla-Moriles

This little-known appellation south of Córdoba is unique in more ways than one. The Pedro Ximénez grape variety is dominant and the wines are not fortified. These finos are often bottled under the name Montilla. They are a lighter and more natural style of sherry than their fortified cousins. The producers of Montilla Moriles mischievously claim precedence, arguing that the name "amontillado" in Jerez means "in the style of Montilla". This alternative is interesting and very competitively priced.