Definition: Tunisia

Located in the heart of the Mediterranean basin, Tunisia has always been a meeting point between East and West, between Africa and Europe. Thanks to its privileged geographical position, Tunisia is now establishing itself as an ideal platform for investment, production and marketing. To enable the agricultural and agri-food sector to keep pace with global economic developments and meet the demands of the new phase of the Tunisian economy, characterised by Tunisia's accession to the WTO and the establishment of a free trade area with the European Union, major efforts have been made to modernise and upgrade this sector.

Tunisia produces between 300,000 and 350,000 hectolitres of wine annually. Nearly 70% of production is marketed as Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée (AOC) wines, 20% of which are classified as 1er cru. Annual exports generally exceed 100,000 hl, in bulk or in bottles. Germany and France are the two main destinations; some quantities are also exported to Switzerland, Belgium, the USA, Canada and certain Eastern European countries.

The Carthaginian and Roman periods:

Vines have existed in the wild in North Africa since the Quaternary glaciation, when they took refuge there. This wild variety still grows in the forests and scrubland of northern Tunisia. However, vine cultivation in Tunisia dates back to several centuries BC. Herodotus said that "vines and olive trees abounded on the islands of Kerkenah (south-central Tunisia), where vines still thrive today". Magon, the Carthaginian agronomist, was the first to detail the practice of viticulture in his treatise on agriculture. The various successive invaders of Tunisia found a mild climate there. Winters are relatively mild. The rest of the year is hot and sunny. All of this is therefore conducive to crops such as vines. Vine cultivation flourished during the Carthaginian and Roman periods. The rich collection of mosaics and frescoes in various national museums illustrates the truth of this and attests to the skill of these ancient farmers, as well as showing their love of vines and wine.

The Muslim era:

During the Arab and Ottoman settlement, the cultivation of wine grapes declined in favour of table grapes. In fact, rare specimens of these oriental varieties still exist (Raz Agui, Chaouch). In 1880, Muslim vineyards covered only about 1,000 hectares, 95% of which were planted with table grape varieties and about 50 hectares with wine grape varieties already belonging to French companies.

Colonisation:

At the end of^{the 19th} century, French, Italian and Maltese colonists were delighted to find conditions conducive to developing this crop, in order to compensate for the reduction in metropolitan production following the phylloxera invasion. They thus laid the foundations for a vineyard that would be as profitable as it is today, developing agricultural techniques and using varieties that would adapt to the environment and soils of Tunisia. In 1881, the first two French vineyards were planted in the Regency, one of which was planted by Cardinal Lavigerie (Archbishop of Carthage) on the site of the current cathedral, where the French king Saint Louis is said to be buried. The small vineyards established since that era were chosen for their favourable location. They were scattered throughout the north-east and a little in the north-west of Tunisia, where the Thibar vineyard, created by the brotherhood of St Joseph, can still be found today. From 1896 onwards, Tunisian vineyards developed at a steady pace, which accelerated enormously between 1926 and 1932 due to rising wine prices and the intensive development of colonisation. In 1933, these vineyards covered nearly 56,000 hectares, 90% of which belonged to Europeans and 10% to Muslims. The decrees of 12 July 1934 and 6 November 1935 then forced Tunisia to reduce its vineyard area by 15% in exchange for France buying up its production. In 1936, in the heart of the wine-growing region of Nassen, a few kilometres from Tunis, phylloxera appeared, forcing winegrowers to uproot nearly 6,000 hectares, reducing the vineyard area to 42,000 hectares. The phylloxera crisis that followed the appearance of the parasite marked a brutal break in the country's wine production. Within six years, 42% of the vineyards were uprooted. The period of intense uprooting took place during the war years between 1942 and 1946, during which time 16,800 hectares, or 39% of the 1936 vineyards, were uprooted. The replanting of vines followed the uprooting with a few years' delay. It began around 1947 and continued until 1960, reaching 45,000 hectares, 9% more than in 1936, the reference year. Admittedly, the vineyards of many countries, including California (1867) and Italy (1880), had also succumbed to the phylloxera invasion, but the crisis was particularly severe in Tunisia as it coincided with the war years and therefore with restrictions on products, equipment and labour. A technical conversion of the vineyard therefore took place following the phylloxera attack, which at the time allowed for the concentration of farms and properties, as well as the establishment of new vineyards on land that was theoretically better suited.

Post-colonisation:

From 1936 to 1965, vineyard production followed the following trend:

1934 to 1938 average: 1,700,000 hl

1948 to 1952 average: 700,000 hl

1962 to 1964 average: 1,900,000 hl

1965 average: 1,700,000 hl

The results for the years 1964 to 1969 were obviously lower, which led to a steady decline in production (600,000 hl in 1969) accompanied by widespread grubbing-up, as winegrowers lost interest in vine cultivation, which was proving unprofitable. In addition, the widespread adoption of the cooperative system created a situation of uncertainty, with farmers unwilling to invest in an uncertain venture. Given the commercial difficulties in selling wine in the nascent EEC and other low-yield markets, Tunisia gave only modest attention to vineyard issues in its three-year plans from 1962 to 1964 and four-year plans from 1965 to 1968. The designation (AOC) or appellation d'origine contrôlée (controlled designation of origin) is awarded to a wine-producing region or sub-region that produces distinctive wines. This region is subject to regulations, decreed by a law that strictly stipulates:

1- The geographical area: governorate, delegation and sector.

2- The grape varieties: The appellation may be reserved for wines made from a single grape variety or a blend of several grape varieties in a sometimes specified proportion.

3- Yield per hectare: Depending on the quality and quantity of the harvest, the annual yield may be modified, taking into account the limited classification ceiling.

4- Alcohol content: This is the alcohol content before any enrichment process.

5- Cultivation and winemaking processes: Cultivation processes are specified in each appellation d'origine contrôlée decree, such as planting density, pruning and ripeness, as are winemaking methods (maceration of the must, ageing in barrels, prohibition of over-pressing or continuous pressing, fermentation in bottles).

The right to use the appellation can only be confirmed if the following formalities, for which the grower is personally responsible, are completed:

-Declaration of the harvest with submission of a vine variety sheet.

-Application for a certificate of approval after analytical and organoleptic examination.

-AOC wines may not be released for sale without a certificate of approval and a movement certificate.

-Only one appellation can be declared "per area", which means that a farm must detail the appellations by assigning them an area.

Tunisia's wine industry is distinguished for the most part by seven appellations d'origine contrôlée (AOCs):

1 Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée Grand Cru Mornag:

The AOC is located about 40 kilometres south of Tunis. This area has been producing wines that have been appreciated since the heyday of Carthage, and continues to produce quality wines such as the famous Sidi Saâd and Domaine Les Charmettes, which are full-bodied, velvety on the palate, generous and full-flavoured. They go well with meat dishes, especially game.

2 Mornag Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée:

This appellation covers most of Tunisia's vineyards and encompasses the region from Grombalia and Takelsa to Korba in the east and Enfidh in the south. Due to its size, this area is well suited to producing red, rosé and white wines. The climate is drier, with rainfall ranging from 300 to 400 mm.

This area is bordered by the sea, which increases humidity and limits temperature variations. This appellation is most affected by the introduction of improved grape varieties, offering a wider choice for the production of balanced red, rosé and white wines.

3 Thibar Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée:

The AOC area has a continental climate influenced by altitude, with cold winters and hot summers and average rainfall of around 500 mm/year. This production area produces red, rosé and white wines, marketed under the following appellations:

-Coteaux de Thibar

-Domaine Thibar

-Clos de Thibar

4 Coteaux d'Utique Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée:

The appellation area is located to the north, about 40 kilometres from Tunis. The soil is loamy with scree, and the vineyards are often on hillsides with good exposure. The red and rosé wines are highly appreciated for their colour, their delicate bouquet and their velvety texture on the palate.

These wines are known by the following names:

-Châteaux Feriani

-Domaine Karim

-Coteaux de Mateur

-Coteaux de Bizerte.

5 Tebourba Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée:

This appellation covers a large area and, thanks to its climate, produces wines with unique characteristics that are prestigious for the region.

This region produces red and rosé wines marketed under the names:

-Coteaux de Tebourba

-Coteaux de Schouigu

-Domaine Lansarine

-Tebourba Village.

6 Sidi Salem Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée:

It is located about thirty kilometres south of Tunis. The soil is made up of alluvial deposits and pockets of gravel. Annual rainfall is between 500 mm and 600 mm/year.

This region produces red and rosé wines known by the following names:

-Château Khouaguet

-Domaine Nepheris

-Khanguet Village

-Coteaux de Khanguet.

These wines are the perfect accompaniment to meat and game dishes.

7 Kelibia Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée:

This AOC is located 140 kilometres from Tunis at the tip of the Cap-Bon region. It enjoys a Mediterranean climate. The soils are siliceous. The vineyard is composed of a single grape variety, Muscat of Alexandria, also known as "Muscat of Kelibia". These wines are fruity and dry, recommended for accompanying fish and seafood.