(Camellia Sinensis, var. Camellia Assamica) A humble leaf, a great beverage, the most consumed in the world after water. There are more tea gardens in China than there are vineyards in France!

The tea plant is an evergreen shrub that grows mainly in tropical or subtropical regions. In the wild, some tea plants can reach heights of over 10 metres, but when cultivated, they are pruned regularly to maintain a height of around 90 to 110 cm, which is the most suitable height for picking.The buds and young shoots are covered with a fine down, hence the term pekoe (in Cantonese, Pak-Ho means hair). For a long time, it was believed that black and green teas came from different plants. In 1843, botanist and adventurer Robert Fortune proved that they were in fact leaves from the same plant, Camellia Sinensis, but that they were either allowed to oxidise on contact with the air or not. There are three main categories of tea: black teas (fermented), oolongs (semi-fermented) and green teas (unfermented).

The harvesting period, the way in which it is carried out and the processing of the leaves will determine the quality of the product.

Estate: this term indicates the plantation where the tea leaves come from. Just as there are châteaux, vintages and vintages for wine, there are gardens for tea categories.

Vintage: This term indicates that the leaves come from the same harvest and have not been mixed with other tea leaves.

First Flush: This term indicates that the leaves come from the first harvest of the season. It provides the finest and most tender leaves. This tea produces a very light infusion with a delicate aroma.

Second Flush: This term refers to the second harvest of the season. The leaves of this tea produce a stronger and more complex infusion than First Flush.

Autumnal Flush: This term simply indicates that it is the autumn harvest, which takes place after the rainy season.

These last two harvests will produce more abundant but less delicate crops.

Plantations are generally located on hillsides because, although tea plants need constant moisture, waterlogged soil can cause root rot. To filter the hot afternoon sun, large trees are allowed to grow on the site and their leaves serve as natural organic fertiliser when they fall to the ground.

Nowadays, tea is still picked by hand in India and Sri Lanka, while in other more technically advanced countries, semi-manual or even automatic machines are used. Traditionally, this work was reserved for women, who were considered to be more dexterous for this delicate task. In India, a picker harvests an average of 16 to 18 kg of leaves per day, which represents tens of thousands of shoots in a single day.

The younger the tea leaves are when picked, the more tender and higher quality they are. The finest harvest consists of picking the bud (pekoe) and the first two leaves. The more mature, large and tough leaves are added, the lower the quality and the price at which the tea can be sold. It is therefore up to the plantation manager to decide whether quality or quantity will prevail in his production. He will do so according to world market prices and taking into account the advice of his Tea Broker (advisor).

Regular pruning and cutting back every three years keeps the tea bushes at a height of around 90 to 110 cm, which makes picking less arduous. Pruning not only encourages new branches to grow, but also forces them to develop horizontally at the top of the bush; this area is called the picking table. To assist the pickers, long bamboo poles are used as markers below which the leaves must not be harvested. This prevents compromising regrowth and picking mature leaves, which have a strong taste and would result in a coarse and mediocre harvest.

Tea leaf processing (from leaf to infusion)

Black and semi-fermented tea (brown - oolong)

1. Withering: The leaves are exposed to hot air for several hours to reduce their water content by 40 to 50%. This also softens the leaves, making them more resistant to subsequent operations and ensuring they remain intact. The leaves must not be broken or crushed, except for specific types of tea, for which the treatment is carried out in a precise and controlled manner.

2. Rolling: The leaves are rolled up (by hand or mechanically), which allows the essential oils to spread and soak into the buds without having to crush them. This step serves to start the process of releasing the enzyme responsible for the oxidation of the leaf (fermentation) and to reduce the size of large leaves for certain types of tea. The aroma of the tea depends on these essential oils.

3. Sieving - The leaves are separated according to size using sieves. The smaller ones go directly to the next stage, while the larger, harder ones undergo a second rolling.

4. Fermentation: This is the chemical reaction of the leaves and their components (polyphenols) with air, moisture and heat. This is a crucial moment that determines the aroma, strength and colour of the tea. If this stage is stopped too early, the tea will be greenish and have a metallic aftertaste, while if it is over-fermented, it will become sweetish and lose its quality and aroma. For oolongs, semi-fermented teas, this stage is carried out more quickly.

5. Drying: This stage fixes the characteristics of the tea. For drying the leaves, which stops fermentation, there are two different techniques: hot air or roasting (more pronounced drying). If drying is insufficient, with more than 12% moisture, the tea may become mouldy. If it is excessive, with less than 2 to 3% moisture, the result is a tea without aroma, as the elements remain largely insoluble.

6. Sieving: The leaves are separated according to their size, known as grade. This process also allows them to cool and aerate. At the end of these steps, 100 kg of fresh leaves will produce only 20 kg of black tea.

Instant tea is black tea that has undergone the usual production stages but is further dried and ground into powder. This type of tea has the advantage of being easier to pack and export. It is also ideal for the two major innovations of^{the 20th} century in tea: iced tea and tea bags.

Green tea

1. Withering: less time-consuming than for fermented teas.

2. Heating: by hot air, roasting or steam. Depending on the process, for example, the leaves are placed in large closed basins, heated to nearly 100°C for 20 to 30 seconds. This operation destroys the enzyme that causes fermentation. This is why the leaves remain green. In Japan, this heating is done by exposing the leaves to steam.

3. Rolling: As with black tea, but gentler in China; the smaller and tighter the leaf is rolled, the stronger the tea will be as more of its components are released.

4. Drying: By hot air or roasting. This allows some of the water contained in the leaves to evaporate to prevent mould.

5. Sieving: This is the stage at which the grades are separated. As with black tea, this is done using sieves of different sizes.

Categories and grades (classification of teas)

Black teas are divided into three main categories: whole leaf tea, broken leaf tea and crushed leaf tea. Depending on the type of picking and processing, these categories are subdivided into several grades. However, the quality of a tea does not depend on the size of its leaves, but on its origin, the season of harvest and the type of picking. It should also be noted that crushed leaf tea will produce a stronger infusion than broken leaf tea, and that the latter will be much stronger than whole leaf tea. In the case of green teas, the classification is carried out in much the same way.

Black teas: all of the following varieties are produced by rolling.

Whole leaf teas

Flowery Orange Pekoe (F.O.P.): from a fine harvest, this tea contains buds (golden tips) and fairly small leaves, rolled lengthwise.

Orange Pekoe (O.P.): also produced from a fine harvest, but a little later, when the buds have already turned into leaves.

Souchong (S): made from very large, mature leaves, it is often smoked with spruce.

Flowery Pekoe (F.P.): obtained by means of a special rolling process that forms the leaves into balls, this tea is very full-bodied and colourful.

Pekoe (P): rolled like the previous tea but from a second leaf, it produces an even more colourful infusion and has a less delicate aroma.

Pekoe Souchong (P.S.): made from the^third leaf, it is of lesser quality.

Broken leaf teas:

Broken Orange Pekoe (B.O.P.): a high-quality tea from a fine harvest, it is composed of deliberately broken (chopped) leaves or debris collected during sifting.

Broken Pekoe (B.P.): produced from the^second or^{third leaves}, it is of inferior quality.

Broken Pekoe Souchong (B.P.S.) and Broken Tea (B.T.): very poor quality.

Crushed leaf teas:

Fannings: made from small flat pieces, with or without a certain amount of buds, this category is divided into: Orange Fannings (O.F.), Pekoe Fannings (P.F.) and Fannings (F), depending on the size of the leaves.

Dust: made up of even finer fragments, these teas, used to produce tea bags, produce very strong and dark infusions.

Green teas:

The best green teas are "early harvest" teas. The earlier in the season a green tea is picked, with small leaves, the better it will be. The timing of the harvest is crucial. Later in the season, it loses its finesse.

Blends - the delicate art of combining teas to achieve consistent quality:

Like wine, tea is a product of the terroir. It is very difficult to achieve consistency in quality, as it varies greatly from year to year, season to season and region to region. There are two types of blends: those obtained from several plantations in the same region (the blend will bear the name of the region) and those made from teas of various origins, each with their own characteristics: one will contribute colour, another flavour, and a third appearance. These characteristics are similar to those of a single-varietal wine (Burgundy), as opposed to a blended wine (Bordeaux).

The best-known blends are: English Breakfast (a full-bodied drink, combining Ceylon tea with Assam and sometimes Darjeeling); Afternoon (the same type of blend as the previous one, but milder); China Caravan (a mild and aromatic blend of unsmoked Chinese teas); English Blend (combining teas from China, Assam and Ceylon); Irish Blend (made from Assam teas).

Earl Grey is a blend of Chinese teas with added bergamot essence. It is one of the world's best-known blends and was created by Edward Grey, Earl of Fallodon, who was Foreign Secretary in England from 1905 to 1916. During a diplomatic mission, he discovered a very old Chinese recipe, and on his return, he submitted it to the Jackson of Piccadilly company, which marketed it under the name Earl Grey.

Inventions that have come a long way

Iced tea was born in the United States in 1904, during the St. Louis World's Fair, during a particularly hot summer. The Assam Tea Growers' Association had a nice stand there, but no one stopped by. The director, Richard Blechynden, had the idea of pouring tea over blocks of ice. It was a success! Even today, iced tea remains the most popular type of tea among Americans. It is available in powder form, ready to be diluted, including sugar and lemon, or as a bottled or even frozen drink!

The invention of the tea bag is attributed to Thomas Sullivan. In 1940, he decided to promote his product by distributing tea samples in small silk pouches. As merchants asked for more, he replaced the silk with gauze, which was more permeable, thus creating the tea bag, now the most popular form of tea among consumers worldwide.

Nowadays, flavoured teas are all the rage. The choice is almost limitless: they come flavoured with flowers (jasmine, rose, lotus, orchid), essences such as bergamot and mint, or even wood smoke such as spruce. Teas are popular with citrus fruits (lemon, orange), fruits (strawberry, blackberry, peach, apple, mango, coconut, passion fruit) or even vanilla, caramel, chocolate, etc.

Producing countries

China

For centuries, China was the only tea-exporting country. Since the^19th century, however, it has faced stiff competition from new producing countries such as India and Ceylon. Nevertheless, China remains one of the largest suppliers of fine teas. Today, green teas account for 75% to 80% of Chinese production, most of which is reserved for domestic consumption. The rest of the green tea production and all of the black tea production is exported.

Chinese teas come from five provinces. One of these, Yunnan, is located near the Himalayas. Harvested at high altitude, this black tea has a very rich flavour without any astringency. It is considered by some to be one of China's finest teas, and even one of the best teas in the world. The other provinces are located further east in the country. The low-altitude region of Anhui produces Keemun, a black tea with a slightly chocolatey flavour. It also produces good green teas, Chunmee and Sowmee. Fujian and Jiangxi produce less remarkable black teas that are mainly used in blends. Zhejiang is renowned for its Gunpowder tea. China also produces semi-fermented teas, but these are far from matching those of Formosa (Taiwan).

India

Most of India's tea production is consumed locally. The scale of production is considerable, as is the economic impact of this crop in India. There are many varieties of tea. Indeed, as India is a vast country, the producing regions experience very varied climatic conditions. Some plantations are located at high altitudes, others in plains; some consist of plants of Chinese origin, others of indigenous plants, and still others of hybrid mixtures of these varieties. The quality of Indian teas is therefore highly variable, hence the importance of knowing their region of origin in order to determine their quality.

Southern teas come from Travancore and Nilgiri, plateau regions similar to those of Ceylon. These teas produce a pleasant, sweet liquor with a beautiful colour, but little character; they are mainly blended with other, stronger teas.

Northern teas come from Darjeeling, Assam, Dooars and Terai. The latter two regions, located on flat land, are little known because they produce teas of average quality, used in blends. On the other hand, Darjeeling (or West Bengal) teas are considered by some to be the finest in the world. Prioritising quality through careful picking, these plantations, unlike others, have a low yield per hectare (40 to 50 tonnes per year, or 3% of India's total production). The first harvest produces a very light but highly flavoured tea, while the second offers a more pungent tea with a coppery colour and a taste of ripe fruit. The autumn harvest produces a tea with a more developed colour and aroma and of slightly lower quality.

Assam, a low-altitude, wooded region in north-eastern India, cleared under extremely difficult conditions, is nevertheless one of the most fertile regions in the country. The teas produced there are of high quality.

Ceylon

Tea cultivation was introduced to these islands by the British during the second half of^{the 19th} century. Better known today as Sri Lanka, this island country retains its former name in the conservative world of tea. This is why we refer to it as Ceylon. Ceylon mainly produces black teas. They are classified according to the altitude at which the plants grow (low grown teas grow up to 600 metres and produce a dark, strong infusion intended mainly for blending; mid grown teas grow between 600 and 1,200 metres and high grown teas, which thrive between 1,200 and 2,300 metres, produce the best quality). The main producing regions are Uva and Dimbula. They include several large gardens. Ceylon teas have a worldwide reputation that ranks them among the finest.

Formosa: Like Ceylon, teas produced in Taiwan are still marketed under the old name of Formosa. Although Formosa also produces green and black teas, it is the oolongs (semi-fermented teas) that have made its reputation. Extremely fine and delicate, with a unique, naturally fruity flavour, these teas are particularly popular in the United States.

Japan

Japan is a special case, as it produces almost exclusively green teas, 97% of which are consumed domestically. Matcha, a powdered tea, is reserved for ceremonies. The tea commonly consumed, made from infused leaves, is called Ocha. In descending order of quality, we can mention Gyokuro, Sencha and Bancha.

East Africa

In the^20th century, tea cultivation was introduced by the British in their East African colonies (Kenya, Uganda, Burundi and Tanzania). Thanks to mechanisation, these plantations managed to capture a large share of global production, without however achieving the quality of the great lords such as Chinese Yunnan or Indian Darjeeling. African teas are black teas presented in broken or crushed leaves, reduced to tiny particles.

Russia

During the^19th century, tea cultivation was introduced to Russia, more specifically to Georgia. However, the production and quality of this tea were very modest. As a result, it was reserved for local consumption rather than export. The Russian tea found on shop shelves is in fact a blend of Chinese teas imported into Russia.

World tea production in thousands of tonnes:

India: 900

China: 700

Kenya: 300

Sri Lanka: 280

Turkey: 180

Indonesia: 130

Japan: 80

Bangladesh: 52

Iran: 45

Argentina: 42

Vietnam 36

Africa 35

©1996:Montreal History Centre

adaptation Ph. Margot.

The health benefits of tea

Fine teas combine the pleasure of the palate with numerous beneficial properties. The buds and first leaves produce the finest teas, and it is these teas that contain the most active ingredients. These ingredients determine the health benefits of tea.

Caffeine/theine:

All types of tea (green, oolong, black, pu-erh) contain theine (caffeine). However, its effect on the human body is different from that of caffeine in coffee. The caffeine in tea (especially in unfermented tea) is bound to other molecules, phenolic compounds, which slow down its stimulating effects on the body. Coffee stimulates the heart and blood circulation after a short time. Tea (especially green tea) has a gentler, more gradual and longer-lasting effect. It stimulates the brain and central nervous system. It is therefore important to differentiate between the effects of caffeine depending on the type of drink consumed.

Calming tea:

The amount of theine depends on the type of tea and how it is prepared. Green teas contain less theine than black teas. With a good quality tea made from whole leaves, the theine content can be reduced by discarding the water after an initial 45-second infusion. Then brew as normal. This method removes some of the theine without destroying the flavour of the tea. The polyphenols dissolve more slowly. Their beneficial and calming effects are thus preserved.

Cholesterol:

Tea has a preventive and curative effect on arteriosclerosis. All types of tea reduce "bad" cholesterol (low-density lipoprotein) and increase "good" cholesterol (high-density lipoprotein).

Fermentation - oxidation:

Fermentation causes a chemical transformation of polyphenols and alters certain substances. Green tea therefore has several health benefits that are unique to it.

Iron:

Tea can slow down the absorption of iron in the body. People with iron deficiency should therefore avoid drinking tea at the same time as a meal rich in this element. Tea can then be consumed outside of mealtimes.

Additional effects of green tea:

Green tea has a particularly high content of vitamins C, A, B and P, as well as trace elements and polyphenols. It increases concentration and physical capacity, improves blood circulation and protects teeth (good source of fluoride). It has anti-inflammatory, digestive and anti-depressant effects and helps regenerate the skin. Several recent studies suggest that green tea prevents certain cancers (particularly stomach, colon and possibly even lung cancer). Scientists are particularly interested in the main active component of green tea, EGCG (epigallocatechin gallate). EGCG is more effective than vitamin E at destroying free radicals, toxic molecules involved in cellular ageing. These protective effects have been observed in populations that consume large quantities of green tea.

Additional effects of P'uh-êhr:

The oxygen-free fermentation of this tea gives it its specific properties. In particular, over time it develops particularly effective digestive substances. In China, P'uh-êhr has been known and appreciated for many centuries. It relieves diarrhoea and indigestion. It soothes sore throats and helps fight colds. It can be very effective against headaches. As for its slimming properties, these are only effective on certain body types. Nevertheless, P'uh-êhr can be considered a good supplement when trying to lose weight.

Choice of accessories:

Choose a small teapot that is odourless and made of porous material (terracotta) that develops a patina and should always be used for the same type of tea. Preheat the teapot and, if necessary, the cups with hot water. Depending on the desired strength, serve one to three teaspoons or pinches of tea in the preheated teapot with 2.5 dl of water. The water used for brewing should be completely free of chlorine and limescale and low in minerals. Otherwise, the brew will not have the desired aroma or appearance. Pour at the indicated temperature. For green teas, even lower!

A quick and easy way to stop the infusion: use filters.

Leave to infuse for the indicated time. If you want a more bitter taste, leave to infuse for longer. For good quality leaf teas, it is possible to reuse the same tea, following the above procedure, two to four times in the same half-day, particularly green teas, Oolong and P'uh-êhr. Based on these guidelines, you can vary the quantity and duration according to your taste.

Preparation:

Green and white teas require special attention. Otherwise, their leaves may "burn" and lose their fragrance. The infusion temperature for unfermented teas is 70°C (or below). To easily reach 70°C: Pour 1/4 cold water (directly onto the tea) + 3/4 simmering water. On the other hand, for fermented teas, we recommend boiling water at 95°C and an infusion time of three minutes. It is possible to infuse the tea a second time under the same conditions.

Reminder:

Green and white teas require special attention, otherwise their leaves may "burn" and lose their fragrance.