Definition: Sicily 3

The vineyards of Sicily - grape varieties and appellations - Abrief lesson on viticulture and wines in Sicily:

Sicily is the region with the largest area of vineyards. However, even though its wine-growing tradition is very old, the southern Italian island is only just beginning to move away from productivity and start focusing on quality. Basically, before, the focus was on quantity, quantity and quantity. Now, we are seeing a second path, that of quality, which the major wine regions of Italy have already been following for the past twenty years or so.

Appellations

In terms of appellations, Sicily has one DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita), the highest Italian appellation, and offers 11 DOCs, the best known of which is undoubtedly Marsala. Curiously, Marsala was invented by English merchants. This is not so surprising, given that Marsala is a fortified wine, which the English are rather fond of, as they are of port. Marsala has experienced a certain decline due to its commoditisation and a drop in quality standards. However, business is picking up again, thanks in particular to the promotion of appellations such as Marsala Superiore Riserva, for example. Marsala is made from a variety of white and red grape varieties, such as Grillo, Catarratto, Inzolia and Damaschino (whites) and Pignatello, Calabrese, Nerello Mascalese and Nero d'Avola. In fact, almost all of Sicily's indigenous grape varieties can be found in Marsala.

Another DOC that accounts for significant quantities is Bianco d'Alcamo. This is a very dry, very pale white wine, fairly typical of the hottest regions of Italy.

One of the appellations that has made significant progress in quality year after year is Cerasuolo di Vittoria. So much so that this DOC became a DOCG in 2005. It is a red wine with a rather pale colour, which is relatively misleading given its power. It is made from Nero d'Avola and Frappato, with an average blend of 2/3 to 1/3. These are two completely indigenous grape varieties. Nero d'Avola is undoubtedly the best-known Sicilian grape variety. It is a variety that produces very powerful wines, hence its blending with Frappato, which lightens the final beverage slightly.

The regions

The north-western part of Sicily (around Trapani and Palermo) continues to follow the old path, which is certainly ambitious but impersonal, very alcoholic and poorly suited to basic international demand. On the other hand, around Etna and Pachino, on the south-eastern side, the focus is very clearly on rehabilitating the terroir, indigenous grape varieties and appellations.

As you can imagine, even though I try to balance my range, I have a soft spot for indigenous grape varieties and respect for the terroir. That said, when you put it like that, it seems obvious. Certainly, but as a result, some wines can, through their aromas and flavours, destabilise the palate of a French wine lover. It is interesting to keep an eye on property purchases, as many producers from northern and central Italy have bought estates, and it is they who are driving the upgrading of quality. However, it is important to check whether these purchases are leading to standardisation, even if quality is improving, or to an emphasis on the unique character of Sicilian wines.

In any case, it is important to have a selection of Sicilian wines in any self-respecting Italian wine cellar, as this remains a major Italian wine region, whatever anyone says. And it is also a very acceptable holiday destination. So let's combine business with pleasure...

At 3,345 metres above sea level, Etna is the highest active volcano in Europe. Etna wine is the first Sicilian wine to have obtained the controlled designation of origin. It is a major tourist attraction, along with Catania, the gardens of Naxos and Taormina, especially in the summer.