Definition: sake

Produced between October and March, as the cold slows down fermentation, Japanese sake is a rice wine with an alcohol content of around 15%. Its colour, which is generally pale to transparent, suggests that sake is beautiful rather than good. It is drunk either chilled or warm, depending on the season and the label. For Mr Iida, president of the Okanaga association, which brings together the best producers, sake is like a mirror reflecting a state of mind. Full of aromas, a "pretty" sake, neither acidic, bitter, too sweet nor too spicy, evokes for true connoisseurs the clarity of the moon or a young woman with a lively spirit and assertive character...

While Japanese beers and foreign wines are enjoying great success in Japan, craft brewers are betting on a return to their roots. Far from industrial companies, which favour quantity, inspired producers are focusing on quality, perpetuating the traditional methods of making this delicate drink that is sake. The techniques are passed down from generation to generation. "In tradition, there is always something modern to rediscover," says Mr Masuda. As proof, old sakes, called "amber lustre", are aged in the attic in 1,200 porcelain barrels. These ten-year-old vintages are drunk at room temperature and accompany robust dishes, red meats and even French cheeses!

A symbol of an ancestral culture, sake crystallises the spirit of Japan. In Kyoto, the former imperial capital, nicknamed "the Florence of Asia", barrels from the first production of the year take pride of place in Buddhist temples. The precious liquid is also placed in Shinto shrines and offered to the kamis, the spirits of nature. In the past, when the spirits had drunk their fill of the nectar offered as an offering, the emperor's subjects would religiously finish the rest, toasting to their health. Even today, during a Shinto wedding ceremony, the bride and groom solemnly drink the heavenly beverage from three red lacquer cups, which are exchanged three times. This act seals their union.

North of Kobe, in the mountainous region of Tanba, the Nishiyama brewery produces a sake with a deep flavour. Mr Nishiyama, its owner, who is enamoured with Italy and passionate about design, attaches as much importance to aesthetics as to taste. He has had stunning bottles created for his different vintages and has only one motto: "Sake is something that comes from the heart." Before entering the realm of his master brewer, Mr. Aoki, you must put on rubber boots, a special jacket and a protective cap. The man works in the traditional way, selecting rice varieties and paying close attention to the purity of the water. Once the grains have been polished, he monitors the steaming, cooling and fermentation of the rice, with the addition of yeast, until the alchemy takes effect.

At the Nadaizumi brewery in Kobe, master brewer Mr Takahashi, like many of his colleagues, comes from a family of farmers. "In winter," he explains modestly, "our fields don't require much work, so I take the opportunity to make sake. " He started in the business 21 years ago and learned on the job. In his view, "stealing the master's secret" is the only valid form of teaching. For this connoisseur, "there is no such thing as good sake. It's a personal matter; everyone has their own taste. This drink is the expression of a feeling. There are sad sakes, happy sakes, sakes that accompany the different stages of life, marking each departure, each beginning."

In Japan, sake flows freely on many occasions. In spring, to celebrate the fleeting cherry blossoms, groups picnic happily under the trees, sharing a good bottle. To celebrate a birthday, academic or professional success, or to liven up an evening with friends, sake is always present. Whether you are the host or a guest, Japanese etiquette dictates that everyone fills their neighbour's glass. When you are served, it is polite to hold your cup with both hands as a sign of respect.

At the counter of a bar in Greater Tokyo, regulars order a jug of sake accompanied by appetisers, fermented beans, chicken skewers or slices of octopus with wasabi (Japanese horseradish). Some empty their glasses in one gulp, others drink very slowly. Perhaps they are familiar with the Japanese legend that young virgins, by chewing rice for a long time, gave birth to this subtle nectar known as sake.