Definition: rice

American long-grain rice: South Carolina was the first American state to cultivate rice, although it ceased doing so after the Civil War, with cultivation then moving westwards to Arkansas, Louisiana, Mississippi, Texas and California.

Classic American white long-grain rice: its subtle flavour goes well with both rich and delicate sauces. Polished after harvesting to remove the protective husk and bran, the grains are thin and four or five times longer than they are wide. They separate nicely when cooked. Classic American brown long-grain rice (or whole grain rice): minimally polished, it has a nutty flavour because only the protective husk is removed, not the bran layers. This is why it retains more vitamins, minerals and fibre than classic white or parboiled rice. Parboiled (or pre-treated) American white long-grain rice. This is the ideal rice for novice cooks. It is subjected to pressurised air and then a jet of steam before being polished. This process gelatinises the starch in the grain to produce a grain that does not stick during cooking and is more resistant to overcooking. It also preserves most of the natural vitamins and minerals contained in the layers subjected to polishing. When raw, it has a golden appearance that turns white after cooking. American brown parboiled (or pre-treated) long grain rice

Brown rice, like white rice, is available in a parboiled form that ensures faster cooking. Parboiling allows the grain to retain its shape after cooking.

Japanese rice - Gohan: a word with great significance, as it refers to both the meal and the rice itself. Preparation of steamed rice and sushi rice: rice is Japan's staple cereal, but beyond being a simple agricultural product, it symbolises many facets of Japanese life.

2,000 years of rice cultivation: many Japanese words relate to rice and rice products, such as o-kome (rice grains), o-sake (rice wine) and o-sembei (rice crackers), which are preceded by the prefix "o", often added to the names of things worthy of respect. This usage reflects the special, almost sacred status that rice and its grains have enjoyed since ancient times. Even today, many Japanese people cringe at the thought of wasting rice. Archaeologists believe that rice was first cultivated in Japan more than 2,000 years ago. During the medieval period, when land taxes were calculated and collected in the form of a certain amount of rice, this cereal must have acquired a special status as a currency in the emerging national market.

Rice is grown throughout Southeast Asia and other regions that are warmer than most of Japan. Adapting rice cultivation to a relatively short summer required careful preparation, and as early as the^{17th century}, Japanese farmers began to develop new varieties of rice that were more resistant to cold. They discovered the use of wild ducks in rice paddies. The ducks pull up weeds. They also bend their necks to grab and eat insects found in the rice stubble. Their droppings enrich the soil. In addition, ducks swim on the surface of the rice fields all year round, and their comings and goings ensure that the plants are isolated, surrounded by water and vigorous. Ancient beliefs demonstrate the mystical powers of rice and are reflected in numerous rituals. For example, to purify a plot of land before building a house, rice grains are scattered to drive away evil spirits. The special place that rice occupies in dishes served at wedding ceremonies and funerals is based on the belief that it makes rebirth possible. In the past, it was believed that cooked rice balls, carried since ancient times as snacks and still popular today with hikers and travellers, possessed powerful spiritual forces and symbolised the shape of the soul; this is why rice balls are often placed on personal altars and in shrines as offerings to the gods. Even rice straw is said to be imbued with spiritual power. Rice straw woven into rope is used in the decoration of shrines and the manufacture of ritual ornaments and accessories.

Rice and the Japanese spirit: a proverb says that the richer the grain, the more the rice bows its head. As the ear ripens, the tip of the stalk bends under its weight. The proverb suggests that a man should show all the more humility towards others the greater his power. It is no coincidence that rice is associated with humility. Humility, self-effacement and a willingness to yield are traditional Japanese virtues and seem to correspond to certain traits of the Japanese spirit: the desire to avoid confrontation and reach consensus, sometimes at the cost of unresolved issues. In today's international community, such tendencies may be interpreted as signs of indecision, sometimes leading to criticism of what may be perceived as evasive behaviour. Such traits may well be the legacy of centuries of effort to establish the stable human relationships necessary for rice cultivation, which requires a large workforce.In villages where everyone's survival depended on cooperation in irrigating and ploughing scarce arable land, year after year, self-effacement was a recognised value, and assertiveness a risk that could not be taken. Both the feelings and the rights of the individual took second place to the well-being of the group.

More than just a commodity: curiously, despite the central role played by rice in culture since ancient times, it was not until the first decades of this century that it became the staple cereal in the average citizen's diet. For most of Japan's history, rice was so precious that only members of the aristocracy, wealthy merchants and warriors could afford to eat it regularly. The majority of the population, including most farmers, consumed barley or millet, reserving rice for special occasions.

The choice: round-grained Japonica rice, which becomes "sticky" when cooked. It comes in different varieties, including "Uruchimai" and "mochigome", which is used to make mochi . The most important dish is undoubtedly mochi, a sticky rice that is boiled and then pounded with a mortar or wooden mallet to make cakes traditionally served on New Year's Day. This has given rise to the mochi pounding festival, which has been held every year on the third Sunday in December since 1959. It is a community event that takes place here in central Tokyo. In the heart of the Ginza district, a merchant has been offering the pounding festival on the last day of the year for three decades. The pounded rice is moulded, coloured and sweetened. Pink, white and grey-green mochi in the shape of a stepped diamond are traditional. They are also grilled and served with a sauce or wrapped in a seaweed leaf. Among the various food products traditionally made from rice are crackers (o-sembei), rice wine (o-sake) and mirin, a sweet wine used for cooking. The husks removed during rice polishing are used as a medium for preparing nuhazuee (salted vegetables that are an essential part of the traditional diet).

Medicinal properties: In Japan, medical researchers at Japanese universities are currently studying rice extracts that appear to be effective in treating gastric ulcers. Oil extracted from rice reduces cholesterol.

Nutritional value: the traditional respect shown for rice has both practical and mystical aspects. The belief in the cereal as a unique source of vital energy has been confirmed by scientific discoveries showing that rice is an almost perfect source of human nutrition, with an ideal balance of proteins, lipids and carbohydrates. The germ and bran, although often removed during polishing, are rich in vitamins (especially B1), minerals, fibre and enzymes. Such discoveries have helped to renew interest in rice as the key to a healthy diet.

Cultivation: In Japan, in the village of Hakuba in Nagano Prefecture, when spring shows its first signs and the snow begins to melt, the contrast of black and white on the mountainsides produces varied shapes and signals to farmers that it is time to start cultivating the land. Near the summit of Mount Habuka, when the shape of a large white horse appears, it is time to plant the rice. The rice is harvested in September and October.

Preparation of steamed rice:

1 - Wash 3 1/3 cups of short-grain rice in cold water and leave to drain for 1 hour.

2 - Put the rice in a saucepan; pour in 1 litre of water; bring to the boil over medium heat; cover and cook over high heat for 2 minutes;

3 - Reduce the heat to low and continue cooking for 20 minutes.

4 - Open the lid; place a cloth over the rice; close the lid and let stand for 15 minutes.

Finishing the rice for sushi and maki:

1 - In a small saucepan, pour 6 tablespoons of rice vinegar, 5 tablespoons of sugar and 4 teaspoons of salt.

2 - Heat for a few seconds to dissolve the sugar.

3 - gently pour the rice vinegar into the cooked rice while it is still hot; mix and separate the grains gently with chopsticks.

Iranian rice - Basics and variations:

Rice (chelo) is light, with well-separated grains. It is used in large quantities in Iran. It is the basis of meals that are accompanied by a variety of sauces with surprising flavours, such as plum, spinach, curry, peach, mango, celery, etc. Here again, the cooking method is different. Chelo or polo must be prepared well in advance. The best rice grows on the coast of the Caspian Sea in the province of Mazandaran, where the rice fields cut through the lowlands in muddy basins. When Sadri or dom siyah are not available, Basmati is the preferred choice, a long, thin rice that can be prepared in this way without becoming misshapen or sticky. On the table, there is a dish of saffron rice to accompany the aubergine sauce. The second rice is spectacular because the saffron is mixed with small blood-red grapes that are found clustered on a branch and are a third of the size of a vine grape. These are chopped so finely that they look as if they have been sprinkled on. Hidden in the middle of the rice are small, tender chicken thighs that have absorbed all the flavours.

Cooking method: ingredients

750 ml long or extra-long grain rice

2 litres water

4 tablespoons salt

60 ml butter

1 pinch of saffron

Preparation:

First wash the rice in several changes of water to remove all the starch;

soak for several hours (not essential but offers a double advantage: faster cooking and better control over the finished product); drain;

then sprinkle it into a pot of boiling water with a good pinch of salt and cook it like spaghetti; the grains of rice should be able to "swim" freely;

Remove the rice after 5 to 10 minutes, depending on the soaking time and the quality of the rice; the rice should still be slightly firm but not crunchy.

Drain the rice. At this stage, add the ingredients for the different variations.

Return the rice to the pan and cover with melted butter; mix well.

Place a piece of cloth, such as a tea towel, on top of the rice to absorb the moisture.

Cover the pan tightly; turn on the heat and cook for 20 minutes at medium temperature; then reduce the temperature to minimum and leave on the heat for another 30 minutes.

Dissolve 1 pinch of saffron in 2 tablespoons of boiling water; take 200 ml of cooked rice and pour the saffron over it;

Place the rice in a serving dish; add the saffron-coloured rice; mix gently to create yellow flecks;

Add a garnish according to the recipe.

A good Iranian cook, it is said, must know at least seventeen ways to cook rice.

Variations:

The rice can also be served with lentils, cherries, berries, broad beans, cabbage, etc.

Some people break a raw egg over the rice to give it a creamy texture.

Rice cooked in a pan will develop a crust on top; this tahdig is a sign of the cook's skill in making a successful chelo.

Adas polo with lentils

250 ml lentils

60 g raisins, currants, dates or almonds.

Adas polo ba gusht with lentils and meat

250 ml lentils

2 onions

750 g meat cubes

60 g raisins or dates

turmeric and cinnamon

Zereshk polo with berries

250 ml berries (redcurrants, blackberries, etc.) soaked in 250 ml lemon juice

60 g sugar

Albalu polo with cherries

500 ml cherries for pies

1 tablespoon sugar

cinnamon

Sabzi polo va mahi with fish

2 bunches of spring onions

1 bunch of parsley

1 bunch of coriander

1 kg white fish or mahi

salt, pepper, turmeric.

Rice in Turkey: pilaf

Pilaf is also a staple food in Turkish cuisine. The most common versions are cracked wheat pilaf (bulgur) and rice pilaf. A good bulgur pilaf made with whole onions, sliced tomatoes, green peppers sautéed in butter and boiled in beef broth is a real meal. Many versions of rice pilaf accompany meat and vegetable dishes. Turkish pilaf is characterised by its buttery, tender grains of rice, which are well separated and do not stick together.

Pilaf is seasoned with various herbs and spices and diversified with the addition of cereals and legumes. It seems that some people invent a new rice dish every day. Recently, restaurants have been serving a type of spicy pilaf prepared in small terracotta pots, baked in the oven and covered with a thin layer of dough. Pilaf can be served as a main dish or a side dish. However, it is worth mentioning here the pilaf served with white beans cooked in tomato sauce, as it occupies a special place in Turkish gastronomic culture. When young people talk about their military service, they don't just talk about the friendships they made, but also about the white beans and pilaf they enjoyed.

Rice in Ivory Coast:

In the Ivorian calendar of festivals, rice plays an important role, as reflected in the rice harvest festival in Grabo in the south-west of the country in January.

Here, rice is served with cinnamon:

1 - Boil 500 ml of water; add 300 g of well-washed long-grain rice; cook for 5 minutes; drain;

2 - Meanwhile, in another saucepan, bring 1 litre of milk to the boil; add the rice and cook for 12 to 15 minutes;

3 - Remove from the heat; sprinkle with 75 g caster sugar and a large tablespoon of cinnamon.

4 - Arrange in a dome shape in a deep dish.

5 - Decorate with candied fruit.

Rice in Italy:

1997 was proclaimed "the year of rice" because it is becoming increasingly difficult to identify a particular type of rice among the thousands of packages available on the market, so that its "variety" can be quickly identified. The initiative was launched precisely to promote Italian rice at a particularly delicate time, since a European Community provision, sought mainly by France and not criticised, or at least not sufficiently so, by our representatives in Brussels, granted customs exemptions and facilities for rice imports from certain African countries around the Mediterranean. These countries, as if by chance, are those where, although political colonialism is over, French economic colonialism remains firmly entrenched: Algeria and Morocco. Egypt was added to these countries by a kind of "par condicio". These countries produce basic quality rice at low prices and in unselected varieties.Large Italian and European rice traders have flooded the Italian and European markets with basic quality products, masked by the addition of different seasonings or vague indications regarding the use and not the origin of the product, speculating on the low price at source. This harms Italian rice producers and the foreign market for Italian rice, which is considered the best in the world (so much so that we even export it to China, which says it all). Rice in Italy has the unique distinction of being present on the tables of all regions and used in all local cuisines. It can be defined as the common denominator, or at least one of the common denominators, of our gastronomic traditions. From Milanese yellow risotto to Sicilian arancini, from the ubiquitous bean paste to Roman supplì, from Venetian black cuttlefish risotto to Mantua rice pudding, to Neapolitan sartù and Emilian rice cake, rice is one of the protagonists of Italian gastronomic civilisation. But each preparation, each dish, requires its own type of rice. And the geography of Italian rice provides a suitable rice for every recipe.

Rice, once the food of the poor and imported in large quantities from Italy during periods of famine, has gained prestige and diversified, thanks in particular to Asian immigration and the Swiss taste for exoticism. A little history and three recipes.

In three weeks, Suwankam Dang sold 57 25-kilo bags of rice. And not just to Asian customers. The Thai owner of the Bambou Shop, an Asian grocery store near Cornavin station in Geneva, which she has run since the beginning of the year, confirms that in Switzerland, people are eating more and more rice, especially exotic varieties from Pakistan, India, Thailand and Iran. "As I am a professional cook, many non-Asian customers ask me for advice on cooking rice, ingredients and, above all, vegetables that can be added to it. These days," says Suwankam enthusiastically, "green and red Thai curry is very popular."

In another Asian grocery store in the Pâquis district, Thu Hang agrees: half of her customers are Asian, half are European. The explosion in the number of Asian shops and restaurants in Swiss cities is a good indicator of this trend. And this increase in rice consumption cannot be attributed solely to Asian immigrants. The Swiss are changing their eating habits to such an extent that they have become the European champions of rice consumption, with 5.4 kilos per capita per year in 2002. This quantity has increased significantly over the last twenty years, even if it is still far from the 120 kilos consumed by Indians or Chinese. Another sign of change is that the rice section in Swiss shopping centres is constantly expanding.

Othmar Steiner, operations manager at the Brunnen rice mill, has also noticed a change in trends. In the past, Italian rice (japonica variety) was the most popular, but today Asian rice (indica variety) is becoming increasingly popular. Asian immigration, which is very present in the restaurant industry, and the resulting increase in mixed marriages seem to be influencing Swiss eating habits. In addition, the Swiss, who are avid travellers, are looking for more exotic flavours on their plates when they return from their trips to Asia.

Reflecting this need for new culinary experiences, La Pinte des Mossettes in Cerniat, above Charmey, did not hesitate to add a vegetarian menu called "Sur les traces du riz" (In the footsteps of rice) to its menu this spring. A culinary epic from Koshi-Hikari on the west coast of Japan to the Mekong, via the bitter rice of the Po Valley. A friend of Judith Baumann, who was named Chef of the Year by the GaultMillau gastronomic guide a few years ago, Jean-Bernard Fasel explains the Mossettes' approach: "Half of humanity eats rice, so we couldn't ignore it. And it was a way of bringing back memories and emotions." The restaurateur says that some guests were fascinated by this menu. "But," he adds, "it wasn't the most popular. Here, people's palates aren't quite ready to discover all the subtleties of rice. It's like trying to get Chinese people to appreciate local wine – it takes time."

According to Othmar Steiner, changes in eating habits differ from one region of the country to another. In Ticino, for example, risotto is still widely eaten and large quantities of rice are imported from Italy. Unless, that is, people consume the rice that has been grown on 55 hectares of land in the Magadino plain near Locarno since 1997. This rice is also used for risotto. In German-speaking Switzerland, Japonica rice is eaten as much as white or Asian rice for risotto. In French-speaking Switzerland, partly due to higher Asian immigration, Asian rice is more popular and is no longer considered a simple side dish. Although Asian rice is in vogue, Switzerland still imports large quantities of rice from the United States.

The evolution of rice consumption in Switzerland since the^{18th century}has been considerable. As François de Capitani, curator of the National Museum in Prangins, explains, rice began to spread throughout the country in 1860, at the same time as the development of the railway and steamboats. "The area under cereal cultivation in Switzerland has decreased by two-thirds in a generation," notes the historian and gastronome, and it was necessary to compensate for this consequence of rural depopulation. Author of a book entitled Soupes et citrons, la cuisine vaudoise sous l'Ancien Régime (Soups and Lemons: Cuisine in Vaud under the Ancien Régime), François de Capitani points out that, during the Age of Enlightenment, rice was primarily intended for the poor and that in times of famine, it was imported on a massive scale from Italy, the historical supplier. Gsottus, a dish from the Upper Valais region resembling a stew, is a perfect illustration of how rice was used in the past, even though it is still cooked today. Rice enriched gsottus, which was already very hearty, with ingredients ranging from dried beef and pork to cabbage, bread and cheese. Rice may also have had pacifying properties, since according to legend, Kappel milk soup was in fact a rice soup, François de Capitani notes ironically.

As for sweet rice pudding, it was primarily a food for the poor. However, this dish had a festive character at Christmas, explains ethnologist Isabelle Raboud. Today, it is a common dish served mainly to babies and children. It can also be found ready-to-eat in supermarkets.

Should we expect an explosion in rice consumption in Switzerland? Experts do not believe so, as the country is already well supplied with cereals, potatoes and pasta. Unless, as during the Yom Kippur War in 1973, when the Swiss rushed to stock up on rice to build up their war reserves, this cereal is considered a long-term investment!