Definition: Plant Robert

Plant Robert (Plant Robez – Plant Robaz) This is a genetic mutation of Gamay, but it is quite different, more than just a simple Gamay, with a colourful appearance. In terms of taste, we have sensations of prune, sometimes black cherry with spicy nuances. A true Plant Robert is always peppery. Very concentrated and extremely pleasant sensations.

History:
Plant Robert, also known as Plant Robez or Plant Robaz, is a variety of Gamay that has adapted to a specific terroir, in this case Lavaux. Although it has been documented in this region since the 19th century – it is mentioned in particular in "Le cours complet de viticulture" by G. Foex, Montpellier, 1891, and in "l'Essai d'ampélographie vaudoise" by Burnat and Anken, 1911 – it is undoubtedly older than that. It was said: "Plant Robert is highly appreciated in very light soils, where it produces higher yields than other grape varieties and a good quality bottled wine. It is early ripening and, from September onwards, its leaves turn red. It is an interesting grape variety that should not be abandoned and which produces surprising results in particularly light and dry soils."

In the 1960s, Pierre Paley, a winegrower from Epesses, owned the last plot of Plant Robert. And when the vines of this vineyard, condemned by the construction of the motorway, had to be uprooted, a providential man, Robert Monnier, a winegrower in Cully, took grafts from several vines, thus ensuring genetic diversity. Jacques Monnier, Robert's brother and municipal official responsible for the Cully commune's estates, then had around 4,500 m² planted in the Villette appellation. This is how Plant Robert was saved from complete extinction at the last minute.
Alongside its reintroduction, interest in this speciality grew. For several years, opinions were divided on its nature. Was it a particular grape variety or a variety of Gamay? Advances in DNA decoding have provided a definitive answer, and we can now say with certainty that Plant Robert is a variety of Gamay. To understand the difference between a grape variety and a cultivar, an analogy with the animal world is useful. A stray cat, a Siamese or a Persian are three breeds of cat, unlike the lynx or the panther, which have a genetic code similar to, but not identical to, that of the domestic cat.
With the mystery of nature solved, the questions surrounding the etymology and history of Plant Robert remain. For anything related to its geographical origins, we must look to the French Beaujolais region, where all Swiss Gamay vines originate. Questions about its emergence as a distinct variety will undoubtedly remain unanswered. However, it can be said that Plant Robert differentiated itself from other varieties once it was planted in the soil of Vaud and that it is an authentic regional speciality.
We have some additional information about its name. Plant Robert, also known as Plant Robaz or Plant Robez, may derive from the term 'rober', a Germanism from 'rauben' meaning to steal or rob. However, this etymology remains uncertain and may need to be revised. For now, it satisfies producers, who can use their labels to write interesting texts about this "stolen" plant. Moreover, for this speciality with such a nebulous past, a less mysterious name would not be appropriate.
Given the excellent quality results obtained and the originality of this wine, a group of passionate winegrowers developed it on their estates before forming an association to promote a product with strong historical and geographical ties to Lavaux.
In 1980, the municipality of Cully registered the Plant Robert trademark with the Intellectual Property Institute in Bern. In 2003, it renewed the registration of the 3R trademark with the IPI as a figurative mark, along with the associated regulations and logo.
The name does not therefore come from Robert Monnier's first name, but, as already mentioned, is thought to derive from the verb 'rober', which meant to steal (from the German 'rauben' = to steal), which still survives in the word 'dérober' (to steal): an etymology that fuels all kinds of fantasies about the history of Plant Robert.
An association for Plant Robert was created in 2002. It had nineteen members in 2003 and its committee hopes to increase the number of members further.

This association aims to guarantee the authenticity of Plant Robert de Lavaux through strict specifications regarding planting density (at least 8,000 vines/ha), pruning (short) and production (maximum 1 kg per m²). The commune of Cully owns the Plant Robert trademark and the area where this grape variety is grown is Lavaux.

Cultivation approach:
In 2007, Plant Robert was grown on 82 fossoriers (= 3.7 ha) of small plots scattered throughout Lavaux. It was in the particularly dynamic context created by the inclusion of Lavaux in the UNESCO World Heritage List that the official launch of the Plant Robert trademark and certification took place, the culmination of several years of remarkable work by the Plant Robert Association.
A second-era variety, Plant Robert is characterised by small, compact bunches with broad shoulders and large berries; it is susceptible to rot, can be unpredictable depending on the year and requires a firm hand and very strict monitoring to determine the ideal time for harvesting.

Tasting notes:
Plant Robert is also the name of the wine made from this "grape variety": a dark, almost garnet-coloured red wine that differs from its Gamay cousins in its spicy notes and concentrated, intense aromas of wild berries, blackcurrant, black cherry, pepper and cinnamon, and even floral nuances.
On the palate, this authentic wine is lively and fresh, with good acidity and magnificent fruitiness. Its lovers appreciate its paradoxes: both wild and distinguished, refined and rustic, it is undoubtedly a wine of character.
Approximately 16,000 bottles were produced in 2006. The maximum potential according to the specifications is 37,000 bottles.

Pairings:
Plant Robert pairs deliciously with poultry, game birds, mushrooms, soft cheeses or dry goat's cheeses.

The Association's approach to certification:
Founded on 30 April 2002, the Association brought together 18 vine and wine artisans who cultivate and produce Plant Robert.
Its mission is to:
Ensure compliance with the specifications it has established in order to guarantee the long-term authenticity of Plant Robert de Lavaux.
To appoint an independent and neutral certification body to demonstrate to everyone that its members are doing what they promise.
Promote awareness and appreciation of the magnificent potential of this wine.
Its objective:
To ensure the sustainability of Plant Robert, a historical heritage of Lavaux, and to preserve its authenticity so that it continues to delight the taste buds of those who love it for many years to come.
Its approach:
The value of the approach lies in its credibility. Nowadays, it is no longer enough to include it in a charter without some form of certification, i.e. traceability recognised by an official body.
This certification is provided by the Intercantonal Certification Organisation (OIC), based in Lausanne, which is an accredited public body. The canton of Vaud is a member. The OIC already certifies most AOCs (excluding wines) in French-speaking Switzerland. It therefore has the experience to offer flexibility, controlled costs and credibility.
Certification:
How to obtain certification:
1. By creating a non-profit association dedicated to the defence and promotion of Plant Robert.
2. By drawing up a set of specifications, a veritable guideline for Plant Robert ethics, which enables members to lend credibility to their actions.
3. By means of a control manual, a tool necessary for certification by the OIC.
4. By signing an agreement between the Municipality of Cully and the 3R Association, allowing only members of the Association to use the Plant Robert, Plant Robaz and Plant Robez, Lavaux brand and logo.
The control body:
The OIC or Intercantonal Certification Body, an independent and neutral body that certifies compliance with our specifications, under the control of the Swiss Confederation.
Resources:
The Association is funded by its members' contributions.
The commitment of its members:
Guaranteeing the authenticity of Plant Robert by:
A 100% Plant Robert wine, exclusively from historic "mother plots", produced entirely in Lavaux.
Gentle vineyard management, concentrated, flavourful grapes produced with respect for the environment.
A wine matured in the spirit of winemaking, where everyone is free to add their own personal touch.
Proof of authenticity is the Association's mark. This is affixed to each bottle after tasting by a committee of professionals and if each point of the specifications has been respected. A label (in the form of a facetta) is placed on the necks of all certified bottles. This certification is Euro-compatible (ER 45011).
The Committee in 2007:
Chairman: Jean-François Potterat - Rue du Temple 15 - 1096 Cully,
e-mail: jfjpotterat@hispeed.ch - mobile: 079 236 16 50;
Vice-President: Henri Chollet - Ch. de Montagny - 1091 Aran-Villette
e-mail: vincentchollet@bluewin.ch - tel. 021 799 24 85;
Responsible for relations with the OIC and other organisations:
Blaise Duboux - Creyvavers - 1098 Epesses
e-mail: b.duboux@lavaux.ch - Mobile 078 697 18 80.
Outside the committee:
Public relations and advertising officer:
Stéphane Boisseaux - Institute of Political and International Studies - UNIL-BFSH2 - 1015 Lausanne.
Work telephone: 021 692 31 56 - e-mail: stephane.boisseaux@iepi.unil.ch
Postal address:
Association Plant Robert - Plant Robez - Plant Robaz
PO Box 51
1097 CULLY
These specifications govern the use of the Plant Robert - Plant Robez - Plant Robaz brand for red wines made from the Plant Robert, Plant Robez or Plant Robaz grape variety, a Gamay variety originating in Lavaux (hereinafter referred to as Plant Robert).
1. Basic requirements
Anyone wishing to use the brand must be a member of the Association for the Defence and Promotion of Plant Robert - Robez - Robaz (hereinafter referred to as the Association).
1. The wine-growing operation must be registered with the Required Ecological Services. The processing facility must comply with the ODAL and the code of good oenological practices for winemaking.
2. Grape production and processing, including bottling, must take place within the Lavaux appellation area.
3. The requirements of these specifications are monitored by the Intercantonal Certification Organisation, Jordils 5, 1006 Lausanne. To bear the mark, all batches of wine must be certified by the OIC. A Control Manual sets out the minimum control requirements.
2. Grape production
2.1 Mother plots
1. The Association draws up a list of current and historical mother plots, whose grape varieties constitute the reference for Plant Robert, based on historical, ampelographic or oenological criteria.
2. Owners of mother plots are required to report to the Association any removal of Plant Robert grafts from these plots. Grafts may only be supplied to members of the Association and to nursery growers approved by the Association.
2.2 Registration of plots
1. A plot may only be registered for the production of Plant Robert under the brand name if its vines have been planted using grafts taken from mother plots recognised by the Association. Mother plots are automatically registered.
2. Each member may propose the registration of one or more of their plots to the Association.
3. The Association's Committee shall decide on the registration of each plot. Supporting documents (invoices, certificates, etc.) shall be provided by the applicant. In case of doubt, and exclusively for plots planted or grafted before 2005, ampelographic and/or oenological criteria may be used.
2.3 Nursery
1. Wine-growing operations or specialised companies wishing to produce plants for planting new plots must first notify the Association.

Those who are curious can rest assured that Plant Robert will not become an object of speculation and bargaining reserved for a privileged few. It will simply remain a local speciality, which can be obtained by visiting one of the Lavaux wineries that offer it, the number of which is gradually increasing. At present, out of a total planted area of 6.13 hectares (as of 2008), barely 2 hectares can hope to receive the "Plant Robert - Plant Robez - Plant Robaz" label, which was definitively awarded in September 2005. However, an identical area has been planted with this grape variety and will be eligible for certification as soon as the vines have reached a sufficient age. Henri Chollet estimates that around ten hectares could eventually produce Plant Robert in accordance with the quality requirements of the AOC. This would represent an annual average of 100,000 bottles, or about five times the current quantities.

If the saviours of this speciality are so concerned about things getting out of hand, it is because of the nature of this Gamay variety. Like its cousins, it is very productive. In good years, it can yield up to three or four kilos of grapes per vine. Such a high yield requires drastic limitations if a quality result is to be achieved. Consequently, considerable and careful work in the vineyard is required to produce a quality Plant Robert. Vinification also imposes constraints. The main risk with this Gamay variety is the reductive aroma that the wine can acquire. To get rid of this, micro-oxygenation is allowed by leaving part of the production to rest in large wooden barrels. However, methods vary and each producer has their own recipes for making a Plant Robert that reflects the true nature of the grape variety as well as the character of the winemaker.
This authentic wine can undoubtedly claim the status of a Vaud red speciality and become the standard-bearer for the revival of wine production in a canton which, compared to the established values of Valais, the innovations of Geneva and the dynamism of Neuchâtel, struggles to make its wines known outside its region of origin. This recognition requires effective and targeted promotion, which is the new challenge facing the members of the Association for the Defence and Promotion of "Plant Robert-Plant Robez-Plant Robaz". We can bet that shortly after the labels are affixed in September, events centred on Plant Robert will be organised in the Cully and Villette areas.

In the Gamay family
It is mistakenly believed that the historical birthplace of Gamay is in the Beaujolais region of France. In fact, according to wine historian Hugh Johnson, a mutation of the Noirien grape variety occurred around 1360 in the village of Gamay in Burgundy. The plant produces about four times more than the local Pinot, more regularly and with less work. Winegrowers, who had been severely affected by years of plague, saw this as a blessing, and the newcomer spread throughout the Burgundy vineyards.
In 1395, everything changed. The Duke of Burgundy, Philip the Bold, ordered the uprooting of this "very bad and very disloyal plant (...) from which comes a very large abundance of wine (...) of such a nature that it is very harmful to human beings". The winegrowers complied, more or less willingly, with the lord's wishes, and Gamay deserted its original vineyard. Before its banishment, it found a new home in Beaujolais, which offered it refuge and a terroir in which to thrive.
Today, the appellation's wines enjoy international success thanks to their primeur, the Beaujolais Nouveau. These easy-to-drink wines, often of mediocre quality, do not reflect the qualities of Gamay, which produces highly praised vintages in the villages of Chiroubles, Juliénas and Morgon. Outside Beaujolais, Gamay is grown in most other French wine-growing regions, where it is used as a second-quality grape variety for blends or table wines.
With the exception of Neuchâtel, which has followed Burgundy's example and only allows Pinot Noir to be grown on its soil, Gamay has colonised the various vineyards of French-speaking Switzerland. In Valais, it is one of the components of Dôle, a typical blend that also includes Pinot Noir. In the canton of Vaud, it is the main red grape variety but is most often used in rosé or blended wines.
Only the canton of Geneva has focused on wines made exclusively from Gamay and has succeeded in producing high-quality vintages. The city at the end of the lake has a long tradition of Gamay reds and rosés. Its winegrowers prove that, when properly cultivated and vinified, this grape variety deserves its place among the greats. Under the impetus of the oenologists of Calvin's city, there is even a renewed interest among winegrowers from other cantons, which may change the image of Gamay as a poor-quality grape variety that has lingered since the time of Philip the Bold.
To get an idea of the eighteen producers of Plant Robert, Plant Robez or Plant Robaz in Lavaux:
Raymond Aguet in Lutry
Frédéric Blondel in Cully
Émile Bonjour in Lutry
Les Fils Bovy in Chexbres
Raymond Chappuis in Puidoux
Jean-François Chevalley in Cully-Le Treytorrrens
Henri and Vincent Chollet in Aran-Villette
Paul-Auguste Coderey in Lutry
Corcelles-près-Payerne Municipal Administration in Corcelles-près-Payerne
Cully municipal administration in Cully
Blaise Duboux in Epesses
Patrick Fonjallaz in Epesses
Albert Mamin in Blonay
Mina Monnier in Cully
Jean-Claude and Alain Paley in Epesses
Jean-Daniel Porta in Aran-Villette
Jean-François and Jacques Potterat in Cully
Union Vinicole de Cully in Cully.

Winemakers who already have certified Robert vines are listed in italics.

Partial source: Office des Vins Vaudois, Lausanne - photos Bertrand Duboux - Romanduvin [05/03/2005].