Definition: ortolan

Certain migratory birds such as wood pigeons, larks and ortolans are almost the sole motivation behind this passion, and refinement dictates that they should not be shot, but rather that they should be lulled into a false sense of security before being captured alive in nets or small traps. This is a labour of patience, where time loses its value and life regains its quality. Hunting ortolans, recently banned by European directives, is part of the tradition of hunting small migratory birds in the south-west. The origin of this practice dates back to^{the 19th century}. At that time, Napoleon III gave permission to the manager of his estate in Solférino in the Hautes Landes (as the inhabitants of the south of the Landes and Chalosse regions call the northern part of the department) to catch the small birds that were causing significant damage to crops. Very quickly, the practice spread to neighbouring estates and then became widespread throughout the department. Matole hunts at the end of the 19th century and the beginning of^{the 20th} often involved more than 2,000 small traps, whereas modern hunts only use around 200. The hunts took place in areas near Tartas and in the Haute Lande. The term "capture" is more appropriate for this practice, which involves clearing an area of ground about ten metres wide and twenty metres long after the harvest. A large number of "matoles" must then be placed on this area. The matole, or grid, measures 15 to 20 cm on each side and closes on its victim as soon as it enters underneath and knocks over a small stake placed in balance. Under the trap, a few oat seeds are enough to attract the greedy bird, which is mainly granivorous. Around the hunting area, a few stakes are used to support the cages containing the decoys. They are cared for and fed all year round in aviaries and placed in these small cages during the hunting season, with a feeder containing canary seed and a small drinking trough. Chosen for their melodious and frequent song, ortolans raised in this way vocalise as soon as they hear one of their fellow birds in the wild. A hunter with good decoys keeps them for 4 or 5 years and renews some of them each year. The hunting season lasted from mid-August to the end of September, after which the birds no longer passed through. Unlike other varieties of small passerines such as finches and linnets, ortolans do not migrate in tight formations, sometimes travelling in groups of 3 or 4, but more often in groups of 1 or 2, which makes spectacular catches impossible. Catching two or three birds in a day is enough to make a hunter happy. Hunting is simple: once the area has been prepared, the traps set and the decoys placed, all that remains is to check once or twice a day to see if any birds have been caught. Very often, the traps have been disturbed by pigeons or loosened by other small birds, which must be released, as only ortolans can be fattened up and are of interest to the hunter. The captured birds are released into a small aviary placed in semi-darkness, where they are given water and canary seed. From that point on, it takes about twenty days for the bird to double or triple in size, a victim of its own greed. Then comes the time for tasting.

As for the culinary aspect, suffice it to say that the ortolan has been held in high esteem since ancient times. Alexandre Dumas, in his great cookbook, devotes considerable space to it.

The ortolan bunting inhabits Mediterranean, temperate and boreal areas stretching from northern Spain to south-western Siberia. In the north, it reaches the shores of the Gulf of Bothnia, bordering Sweden and Finland. In Switzerland, this species is now only found in the Rhône Valley upstream of Lake Geneva, where it is concentrated in the Valais between 600 and 1,400 metres in the rocky steppes.However, in the 1950s, the well-known Geneva ornithologist Paul Géroudet reported a large population in the fields and crops of the lower Rhône plain, downstream from Bex, and more sporadic populations between Lausanne and Versoix. Over the last few decades, there has been a slight decline in this species, both in Switzerland and across Europe, to the point that the French, renowned both for their sophisticated cuisine and for their sometimes less than respectful management of their environment, have protected this species since 1999. Changes in agriculture and excessive hunting are the causes of the sharp decline in the ortolan bunting in much of Europe. These changes have led to a reduction in habitat diversity and an increase in disturbance at nesting sites. Hunting was responsible for the removal of around 50,000 birds per year, or 10 times the population of ortolans in Germany, Belgium and Holland. The species is in decline in at least ten European countries. The total population is estimated at 400,000-600,000 pairs. In Switzerland, it is listed as vulnerable on the Red List of Birds, and the breeding population is estimated at around 250 individuals.Slightly larger than a house sparrow, the ortolan often goes unnoticed. Indeed, the dominant reddish-brown tones of its plumage do not make it particularly conspicuous, even though the male sometimes has bright lemon-yellow colours on its head and breast. The rump is reddish or even cinnamon-coloured. However, there is one small feature that you may notice: the presence of grey-green whiskers on either side of the beak. The female is exactly like the male, only much more discreet. It measures about 17 cm and weighs between 20 and 28 g. The ortolan nests on the ground and after an incubation period of 10 to 14 days, there will be between 4 and 6 chicks, which will remain in the nest for only two weeks before flying away. Therefore, if conditions allow, there may be a second clutch. This African migrant returns in April and May and stays with us for around five months before leaving again. It should be noted that its winter quarters are in tropical Africa. This bird is easily spotted in its habitat as the males often perch on posts. However, it is its song that will enable you to identify it with certainty. The ortolan bunting emits short stanzas of "ti, ti, ti, tiuu", mainly in May and June. This species has a particular preference for hot, dry environments such as vineyards, terraced crops and, above all, rocky steppes. However, it also needs large tufts of grass to build and protect its nest. We can hope that this species will survive in the long term, thanks to the protection it now enjoys, but we can also imagine that the changes in our agriculture that are taking place today could favour this species. It would thus be able to recolonise the sites it once occupied and no longer end up on a plate!

The ortolan is famous as a gourmet delicacy and was previously reserved for kings and other dignitaries. It is highly sought after for its delicate flavour. In Provence, ortolans can be prepared in two ways: spit-roasted or pan-fried. According to some sources, François Mitterrand was very fond of ortolan.

Recipe - Ortolans in their cradle:

Set aside each ortolan, previously smothered in Armagnac, in a casserole dish with salt, pepper and nutmeg, cook for 6 minutes and serve while still sizzling. Follow the advice of a gourmet who doesn't care what people say: place the bird in your mouth and chew it slowly, with your lips slightly parted. However, with the help of your skilfully placed napkin, don't let the aroma escape, and take the most sensual of sips.

By ministerial decree of 5 March 1999, French law fully protects the Ortolan Bunting and therefore prohibits any harm to this species. Its capture, removal, possession, use and transport are offences punishable by 6 months' imprisonment and a fine of €9,000.