Definition: oenology: practice or ethics

With advances in biology, microbiology and biochemistry, new horizons have opened up in the perception of wine, as we have sought to understand the phenomena observed.

Oenology seems to be abandoning science in favour of recipes. Oenologists must apply techniques to be "trendy" and "fashionable": they too must be "in".

And what about the wines? Well, the main thing is that they sell! They must have the right aromas that are recognised and associated with quality by new wine tasters.

Should the qualities of complexity, richness, aromatic palette, finesse, elegance, balance, length, emotion and expression of a terroir be replaced by a few simple, visible and easily recognisable technical tricks that would serve as a benchmark for quality? "Why not," some retort in the name of freedom of expression for wines. But these signs of recognition do not simply express individuality; they seem to be the result of a reductive, often selective, unhealthy and drifting (even deviant) evolution. While the aromatic and gustatory profile of wines remains varied, the theorisation of technical practices is becoming standardised in the quest for reference olfactory or gustatory sensations at all costs.

Should we, for example, seek to reduce barrel ageing to the simple expression of wood and only 1 or 2 aromas? Yet between the origin of the wood, its drying, the work of multiple coopers, the toasting and the types of barrels manufactured, there are more than 10,000 possibilities for different aromas! The same applies to grape varieties: did you know that for Cabernet Sauvignon alone, there are more than 20 clones and more than 200 possible rootstock combinations? In that case, do you know which one you tasted, which terroir it came from, and what climate it was exposed to?

Pleasure should remain an emotion, just like music or painting. We must not allow certain individuals to cross the line, not only in terms of the law (which is always open to debate), but also in terms of oenological "ethics", for various reasons that are not always disclosed. The term 'oenological ethics' has been coined, which is perhaps a little strong, but it is a reality. Before we worry about wines from genetically modified and variously manipulated vines, let us beware of silent abuses. Let us not be hasty in our judgements or excessive in our reactions: let us not fall into the trap of "demonisation", but let us keep our eyes open, our noses alert and our palates awake, for the sake of the diversity and complexity of wines, reflecting their origins and the people who make them.

Source: Hervé Romat, oenologist, university doctor and consultant oenologist.