Definition: Hermitage

Appellation of the northern Côtes du Rhône region. The production area is located about fifteen kilometres north-west of Valence, on the left bank of the Rhône, more precisely within the municipalities of Crozes-Hermitage and Tain-l'Hermitage in the Drôme department. Classified as an AOC in 1937, it covers a production area of 150 hectares. The grape varieties of the appellation are Marsanne and Roussanne for whites and Syrah exclusively for reds. Seventy-five per cent of the wine is red, with the remainder being white and a very small quantity of straw wine (made from Marsanne and Roussanne grapes dried for a minimum of 45 days on racks, straw beds or suspended). The wine must be aged for at least 18 months and the vintage must be indicated on the label. A maximum of 15% Marsanne and Roussanne grapes may be added to the red wine production. These wines can be kept for up to 10 years for the white, much longer for the red, up to 20 years, and very long for the straw wine. Pairings: white wine with roast poultry; red wine with Provençal-style beef fillet or a fairly spicy dish; straw wine with trout in yellow wine or coq au vin with morel mushrooms, or duck breast with pears and orange.

The Hermitage vineyard in the Rhône Valley can therefore boast a rich historical past. The Romans already appreciated these wines under the name "vins de Vienne" (along with those of Côte-Rôtie); they then took the name "vins-du-coteau-de Saint-Christophe", due to the presence of a chapel dedicated to this holy man. Several legends attempt to prove the origin of the Hermitage vineyard. The most famous recounts that in^{the 17th} century, the name Hermitage appeared in memory of the knight Henri Gaspard de Sterimberg who, on his return from the Crusades and weary of war, is said to have lived as a hermit in^{the 13th} century on this hill ceded by Anne of Castile, Queen of Spain. He is said to have replanted a vineyard there, which has since been known as Hermitage, having brought Syrah grapes back from a trip to Persia. In fact, it seems that the only crusade in which the pious knight took part did not take him beyond the Languedoc.

Today, this appellation, said to be the birthplace of Syrah, but no one knows since when it has been dedicated to this grape variety, benefits from an exceptional orientation and produces one of the greatest red wines in the world. Although in the past, due to its colour and robustness, it was often used to reinforce Bordeaux wines lacking in vigour, including Château Lafite-Rothschild, the list of its admirers is as illustrious as it is incomparable: it includes, among others, Henry IV, Boileau, Louis XIII and, above all, Louis XIV, Nicholas II and Alexandre Dumas. Hermitage wines are full-bodied and fleshy, with a deep, intense ruby colour and an incredible richness of aromas characterised by notes of violet, spices and blackcurrant. With great ageing potential, the best vintages gain finesse and harmony over time. Made from Marsanne and Roussanne grapes, Hermitage whites develop creamy, honeyed aromas of hazelnut, peach and apricot with a rare smoothness. Their ageing potential is measured in decades.

In Valais, Hermitage (always spelled without an 'h') is the usual name for the grape variety and its wine, while the name Marsanne, which originates from the Côtes du Rhône, is very rarely used. It seems that Ermitage was introduced to Valais in^{the 19th} century, where it kept the name of the most prestigious hillside reserved for white Marsanne in the Côtes du Rhône, that of Hermitage or Tain-l'Ermitage. The Ermitage vine is very vigorous. Pruned into goblets, its arms develop into the shape of a ram's horn; the old vines can thus be used to make magnificent candlesticks. The mature leaves are large, thick, deeply cut and more pronounced green on the upper side than on the inner side, which is downy. The bunches are majestic, winged, sometimes with compact, small berries that have thin, fragile skins. Ermitage berries turn coppery in the sun, and the pulp is juicy, tart and pleasant to eat. Ermitage is a late-ripening grape variety that must be reserved for warm, stony soils, enveloped in dry air and a bright atmosphere. The Ermitage vine must suffer in order to produce good fruit. This grape variety can be used to produce a wide range of different products (dry or sweet wines). Its great rusticity makes it a nectar that delights many amateurs and connoisseurs. The aromas are complex and penetrating, evoking wild berries, truffles, strawberries and undergrowth. On the palate, richness is always predominant, with great roundness and a slight hint of bitterness on the finish. Ermitage is one of the Valais white wines best suited to long ageing.