Definition: Grape harvest in Champagne

For harvesting, the three grape varieties authorised in Champagne, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, each have specific characteristics: Chardonnay (white grapes) is planted on 27% of the vineyard. It is the grape variety of choice for the Côte des Blancs, and more generally for slopes with good exposure to the east. Chardonnay wines are defined by their delicate aromas and great freshness, which guarantees long ageing potential. These characteristics are the hallmark of the particular elegance of blanc de blancs champagnes and contribute to the finesse of blended champagnes. Pinot Noir (black grapes with white juice) accounts for 38% of the area. It is mainly found in the Montagne de Reims and the Côte des Bar. Pinot Noir wines are distinguished by their red fruit aromas and their marked power and structure. Pinot Meunier (black grapes with white juice) accounts for the remaining 35%. This grape variety occupies most of the Marne Valley. It often ripens better than the others in difficult years, as it requires less heat. Pinot Meunier wines are quite similar to Pinot Noir wines. Their bouquet is intense and often very fruity, bringing roundness to the blends. Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, which, contrary to what one might think, produce white wine, account for two-thirds of Champagne's harvest. It is therefore understandable that they are treated with special care to ensure that the purple pigments that colour their skins do not migrate into the must and colour (or 'stain') it, except when rosé wine is being produced. The harvesting of all these grapes is subject to strict rules: it must be done manually so that the bunches arrive intact at the presses, which, for the time being, makes it impossible to use current harvesting machines. It must be done in a single pass to ensure the homogeneity of the juice. The bunches are transported with the utmost care in open-sided crates to maintain good ventilation of the grapes and allow rainwater and juice to drain away. It is by adhering to these principles that the quality and specific characteristics of each grape variety are preserved. The more these principles are observed, the better the wines (like those of the Champagne Houses, made from several grape varieties) form a harmonious and subtle blend. The harvest is carried out by pickers working in teams or "hordons". They use secateurs to pick the bunches from each row of vines, two by two, on either side of the row. They collect these bunches in small baskets weighing two to three kilograms. A "picker" cuts around 3,000 bunches per day (i.e. 300 to 400 kg of grapes) over a period of twelve days. Then the "porters" carry these filled baskets to the end of the row and carefully place the bunches (which have been sorted if necessary) in large wicker baskets called "mannequins" which hold 70 to 80 kg of harvested grapes. Increasingly, these are being replaced by plastic or resin crates, which hold 45 to 50 kg. These crates have holes to allow the grapes to breathe and prevent them from overheating. This also helps to drain away any rainwater. Once the crates have been identified by the team of pickers and by plot, and the bunches have been sorted to remove those that are overripe or underripe, the tractor drivers are responsible for carefully transporting the harvest to the press, where the grapes are received, weighed and then handed over to the press staff.Given that three harvesters are needed per hectare, the harvest in Champagne mobilises 90,000 people. It requires appropriate accommodation facilities and significant logistics (food, security, etc.).