Definition: foulage

This tradition continues in several quintas in the best port production areas. The grapes used for vintage port and old tawnies are still trodden by foot in granite vats (lagares). Despite its dubious connotations, the foot remains the ideal tool for gently pressing the grapes without crushing the stems and seeds, which cause bitter and herbaceous flavours in the wine. The foot extracts only the best from the grapes. Treading increases contact with the air, which promotes the development of natural yeasts and rapid fermentation.

The men stand shoulder to shoulder, with their arms around each other's shoulders, and move forward in a line, step by step, in this open vat, pressing the grapes in unison. This evening work, after a hard day of harvesting, lasts at least two hours and is exhausting. The rhythm is set by the person in charge of the treading, who plays the accordion, often accompanied by percussion instruments, while singing rhythmic songs.