Definition: Côtes de Provence

Spread across three departments (Var, Bouches-du-Rhône and a small part of Alpes-Maritimes), the Côtes de Provence wines are very popular. But some are more popular than others, displaying the words "cru classé" on their labels. An official classification has existed since 1955. But what is its value?

Before 1955, the Côtes de Provence were only VDQS (vins délimités de qualité supérieure, or wines of superior quality); they did not become AOCs until 1977. But in July of that year, a ministerial decree approved a classification of certain crus within the appellation. Twenty-three estates (out of the 300 listed at the time) were awarded the " Cru Classé " designation, despite protests from Bordeaux owners... However, on 7 April 1943, the Prefect of Marseille had approved an initial classification of the region's crus classés in order to collect ad hoc taxes. Four criteria were used: direct sales, bottling on the estate, wines being released onto the market after a minimum of 18 months' ageing, and the use of an appellation d'origine or a brand name dating from before 1935. In 1951, the INAO (Institut National des Appellations d'Origine) approved this new hierarchy.

18 classified growths, sometimes contested

However, as can be seen, this classification is based solely on seniority and not on quality criteria; it is therefore debatable (and contested). Moreover, some estates produce a second or even a third wine, which ostentatiously display the words "cru classé". In addition, vineyard plots can enter and leave the classified growths as properties are bought and sold...

Today, 18 estates are entitled to claim this title, as 5 have disappeared (Clos de la Bastide Verte in La Garde, Domaine de la Grande Loube in Hyères, Clos du Relais in Lorgues, Coteau du Ferrage in Pierrefeu and Domaine de Moulières in La Valette). The most active among them (14 owners out of 18) formed an economic interest group (EIG) in 2000 to defend and promote their title.

Here is the list of the 18 classified growths:

Château Minuty, Château Sainte-Roseline, Domaine de la Source Sainte-Marguerite (now Château Sainte-Marguerite), Domaine de la Clapière, Domaine de l'Aumérade, Clos Cibonne, Domaine de Rimaurescq, Domaine de Castel Roubine (now Château Roubine), Château du Galoupet, Château de Saint-Martin, Château de Saint-Maur, Clos Mireille, Château de Selle, Château de Brégançon, Domaine de Mauvanne, Domaine de la Croix, Domaine du Jas d'Esclans and Domaine du Noyer.

Finally, no revisions are planned. It is therefore set in stone for eternity. To update it, it would have to be cancelled and a new selection made.

The Revue du Vin de France ranking

A recent ranking by Revue du Vin de France, led by Bernard Burtschy, reviewed the wines from each of these estates. After tasting recent and older vintages, the magazine published its own classification.

* The 11 crus classés in 1955 that deserve their ranking: Domaine de l'Aumérade, Château de Brégançon, Château du Galoupet, Domaine du Jas d'Esclans, Château Minuty, Clos Mireille, Domaine de Rimaurescq, Château Roubine, Château Sainte-Marguerite, Château Sainte-Roseline, Château de Selle.

* The following crus classified in 1955 no longer deserve to be included: Clos Cibonne (except for its rosé), Domaine de la Clapière, Domaine de la Croix, Domaine de Mauvanne, Domaine du Noyer, Château de Saint-Martin, Château de Saint-Maur.

* On the other hand, these unclassified châteaux deserve to be included: Domaine de la Courtade, Domaine de la Cressonnière, Domaine Gavoty, Domaine de Richeaume, Domaine Saint-André de Figuière, Domaine des Sarrins.

Partial source: La Revue du Vin de France