Definition: Cognac

A product of wine distillation in the Cognac AOC. The production area is divided into concentric zones determined in the 19th century according to soil type.

The region is divided into six crus: Grande Champagne, Petite Champagne, Borderies, Fins Bois, Bons Bois, and Bois à Terroir.

Obtained using the traditional Charente distillation method known as "à repasse", Cognac must be aged for many years in oak barrels to acquire its legendary aromas and colour. One of the unique features of Cognac is that it can be enjoyed in many different ways: it is not only drunk at the end of a meal, but can also be enjoyed as an aperitif, neat or mixed, on the rocks or in a cocktail.

The most calcareous soils of Grande and Petite Champagne have proven to be the most favourable for the production of quality Cognacs. The grape varieties used are Folle Blanche and Ugni Blanc (syn.: Saint-Emilion in Cognac). They produce wines that are fairly acidic and low in alcohol, without much bouquet, which are well suited to distillation and age better than rich, highly aromatic wines. The vinification process is very simple, with the sole aim of obtaining flawless wines without the addition of sulphur. As distillation only concentrates the components of the wine, this concentration applies to both the qualities and the flaws. Sometimes, the fine lees are kept in the wine so that they contribute to the quality of the eau-de-vie during distillation.

Charente distillation is carried out in two successive heats. During the first, a liquid called brouillis is obtained, with an alcohol content of 25 to 30% vol. Distilled again in a second operation called bonne chauffe, the final brandy is obtained. This two-phase distillation consists of cooking the wine and its lees. This cooking flavours the final product and will particularly influence the result of the Cognac during its ageing. The production of Cognac requires a great deal of experience and expertise. The result depends on this, as it naturally varies according to the quality of the harvest, the wine, the origin of the vintage and the desired final taste. The product that comes out of the Charentais still is a colourless Cognac with an alcohol content of 70% vol. The best Cognacs gradually lose alcohol through evaporation during ageing, while for ordinary Cognacs that do not undergo long ageing, the alcohol content is lowered by adding woody water before ageing. This consists of blending eaux-de-vie of different ages and vintages. The minimum ageing period required is two and a half years from 1 October following the harvest, taking into account the youngest eau-de-vie in the blend. This is the case for VS (very superior) or three-star Cognac. If the youngest eau-de-vie is between four and a half and six and a half years old, the Cognac is entitled to the designations: VSOP (very superior old pale), VO (very old) or réserve. As soon as the youngest eau-de-vie in the blend exceeds six and a half years, the Cognac is entitled to the appellations: Napoléon, XO, Extra, Hors d'Age, reserved for exceptional qualities. For ageing, oak barrels with a capacity of 270 to 350 litres are used. The barrel has a dual effect on the eau-de-vie, just as it does on wine: on the one hand, it enriches it with tannins extracted from the oak and, on the other hand, it allows oxygen to penetrate slowly and continuously through the staves. During this prolonged period in oak, the high alcohol content of the brandy extracts colouring compounds from the wood fibres, giving it its colour and, at the same time, aromas reminiscent of vanilla. Slow and controlled oxidation is responsible for a change in the aroma of old Cognacs, known as rancio charentais, as well as a very complex bouquet and taste. The total loss through evaporation during maturation, known as the "angels' share", is 2 to 3% per year.

Cognac has always been a product with highly fluctuating commercial outlets. At the end of this century, the history of Cognac is going through an unprecedented crisis. Yet Cognacs have always been the most noble, delicate, seductive and mysterious spirits. There are many reasons for this crisis, but it must above all be attributed to poor management of the production region and a very poor brand image policy for Cognac.

The situation was euphoric in 1990. Exports to Asia had never been so high. Demand was such that the vineyards were expanded by planting at a frenetic pace. Yields were pushed to the extreme.

The growing popularity of champagnes and whiskies, combined with a policy of steadily lowering prices for the latter, suddenly led to new consumer habits. The latest snobbery in Asia suddenly became drinking wine, particularly fine Bordeaux. This reversal is linked to the findings of serious medical research confirming the benefits of reasonable but regular consumption of red wine (the French paradox). The fear of breathalysers on the roads and the decline in the duty-free market, which is soon to be abolished, have dealt the final blow to Cognac.

Cognac producers, who had focused on a single market strategy targeting America and Asia, neglecting the European market and their own country in particular, are experiencing one of the most significant crises in their history at the end of this century. When will the big comeback happen?

0 21 0 0

The story of a legendary product:

Produced in high-quality vineyards and transported by boat to northern European countries, the wines of Poitou, La Rochelle and Angoumois have been delighting the English, Dutch and Scandinavians since the^13th century. From the^17th century onwards, they were transformed into eaux-de-vie, then aged in oak barrels to become Cognac. Thus began the adventure of a city that would become the capital of a world-renowned trade.

^3rd century:

Creation of the Saintonge vineyard: the Roman emperor Probus extended to all Gauls the privilege of owning vineyards and making wine.

^12th century:

Under the impetus of William X, Duke of Guyenne and Count of Poitiers, a large vineyard called the Poitou vineyard is established.

^13th century:

The Poitou vineyard produced wines which, transported by Dutch ships coming to collect salt from the coast, were appreciated in countries bordering the North Sea. Thanks to this, a mentality conducive to trade developed in the Charente basin from the Middle Ages onwards. The vineyard gradually spread inland to Saintonge and Angoumois. The town of Cognac was already renowned for its wine trade, which complemented its salt warehouse business, established in the^11th century.

^16th century:

Dutch ships came to Cognac and the ports of Charente to collect the renowned wines of the "Champagne" and "Borderies" crus. The vineyards of Aunis produced such large quantities of wine that it became difficult to sell them, especially as their quality declined because these wines, with their low alcohol content, suffered from the long sea voyages. It was at this time that Dutch merchants began using it to supply their new distilleries. They transformed it into "burnt wine", or brandwijn.

^17th century:

At the beginning of this century, double distillation appeared in the region, allowing the product to be transported in the form of unalterable brandy. In fact, alcohol, which is much more concentrated than wine, was less expensive to transport. The first stills installed in Charente by the Dutch were gradually modified; the French mastered and improved the technique with the double distillation process. Following delays in loading ships, it was discovered that the brandy improved with age in oak barrels (from Limousin) and could even be consumed neat.

^18th century:

From the end of^{the 17th} century, and especially from the following century onwards, the market became more organised and, in order to meet demand, trading companies were set up, known as "Comptoirs", in the main towns of the region. Some of these still exist today. They collect the brandies produced and establish regular relationships with their buyers in Holland, England, Northern Europe, then America and the Far East.

^19th century:

The^{mid-19th century} saw the emergence of numerous trading companies, which began shipping brandy in bottles rather than barrels. This new form of trade gave rise to related industries: glassmaking, crate and cork manufacturing, and printing. The vineyards then covered nearly 280,000 hectares. Around 1875, phylloxera appeared in Charente. It destroyed most of the vineyards, which by 1893 covered only 40,000 hectares. This tragedy required many years of effort and patience to revive the region's economy.

^20th century:

The vineyards were slowly rebuilt during the first quarter of the century, using American vines. Although they never regained their former size, they were carefully tended and yields improved. All stages of Cognac production were subject to regulations designed to protect the product, whose reputation was growing steadily.