Definition: Chips and other new oenological practices

Europe has just approved the use of wood chips (12/2005), along with five other new oenological practices. This decision was obtained at the last minute, thanks to a request from Italy. The six new authorised oenological practices are:

• The use of oak chips. All the conditions of use now need to be defined: what type of oak, the particle size of the chips, what type of wines will be able to benefit from this technique, information to be included on the label, etc. This technical and regulatory framework for use will be discussed by the Wine Management Committees, which bring together officials from each state specialising in wine-related issues. The aim is to reach an agreement by the end of the first quarter of 2006. In any case, the chips may be used for the 2006 vintage.

• The use of ascorbic acid as an antioxidant in musts. Until now, this acid could only be added to wines.

• The use of yeast mannoproteins for wine stabilisation.

• The use of activated carbon on musts and red wines. Until now, carbon was only authorised on white wines to remove unpleasant tastes.

• The use of vegetable proteins for fining wines.

• The use of dimethyl dicarbonate (DMDC) as a preservative. This product is mainly used on wines containing residual sugars.

A decision that borders on miraculous:

Expected for years by French wine producers and merchants, the authorisation to use wood chips came as a surprise to almost everyone. "The Italians had informed us of their intention to request this authorisation, but we did not think they would do so so quickly," said a source at the Ministry. France, taking a cautious approach, had decided to address this issue as part of the CMO negotiations, which would have postponed the adoption of this measure until 2007. "The profession was divided on the issue," explained a Ministry spokesperson. "We did not receive formal written requests from the trade and local wine producers for the authorisation of wood chips until the end of October 2005."

Who will benefit from the technique?

Now that the hardest part is over, the conditions for using wood chips still need to be specified. With regard to technical conditions, the Commission plans to rely on the recommendations of the OIV, but Member States may request more or less restrictive standards. The debate on labelling promises to be more delicate, as Spain has expressed its intention to demand labelling restrictions for the use of wood chips. Finally, in France, there is likely to be heated debate concerning the types of wines that will be allowed to use this technique. In July 2004, agreement was reached to authorise this technique for local wines and table wines. However, with the crisis, the question of using this technique in certain regional appellations will arise.