Definition: cardoon

An international city of style, Geneva also boasts a countryside with unexpected attractions such as Plainpalais cardoons.

Known by its full name, Cardon argenté épineux de Plainpalais (silvery spiny cardoon of Plainpalais), this traditional Christmas vegetable earned its stripes when it was awarded an Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée (AOC) designation in 2003. Known since ancient times by the Greeks and appreciated by the emperors Caesar and Caligula, cardoon is part of the same family as artichokes. Found throughout the Mediterranean basin, it probably migrated to the shores of Lake Geneva in the 16th century with Huguenot refugees fleeing France.
To the ear, this survivor of the Wars of Religion sounds very similar to the thistle. It also feels similar to the touch, as, like the flower, it has a thick, thorny protective layer that is very off-putting. And yet, once the spines have been removed, gourmets find it has a delicate flavour reminiscent of artichoke hearts, but with a slight nutty taste. Firm and crunchy, the Geneva cardoon does not have a stringy consistency, unlike some of its cousins grown in greater quantities because they have no spines.

Only seven hectares of the Geneva countryside are dedicated to the cultivation of Plainpalais silver cardoon. In addition, it must be blanched, a process that involves depriving it of light for a certain period of time so that it acquires its definitive taste qualities. This explains why it only appears on the markets during a short season. According to tradition, this low-calorie vegetable, rich in minerals, is used to make the best gratins for the festive season. However, there is nothing to stop you from preparing it in soups, salads or mixed with scrambled eggs.

Cardoon recipes

Traditional cardoon gratin

For this gratin, which is the pride of Geneva and showcases the incomparable spiny cardoon, you will need:

- good quality whole cream,
- 1 teaspoon of cornflour or plain flour,
- salt, pepper, nutmeg,
- a pinch of garlic powder,
- grated Gruyère cheese.

Arrange the cooked and drained cardoons in a gratin dish, mix the seasonings with the cream and spread over the cardoons, sprinkle with Gruyère cheese, then bake for a few minutes until the cream has set.

Cardoon is a traditional Christmas dish in Geneva, often served with turkey or other poultry.

Cardoon in vinaigrette

This recipe shows that cardoons are worth the effort if you use a little imagination in their preparation....

Prepare the cooked, warm or cooled cardoons with your favourite salad dressing or a classic vinaigrette to which you add a crumbled egg yolk!

And finally, let your creativity guide you.

Cardoon Tian

500g cardoon, drained place in a casserole dish over low heat with 3 tablespoons of olive oil, one onion, two chopped garlic cloves and the fillets of two anchovies. Allow to melt together to blend the flavours, then sprinkle with flour, stir and pour in 1/2 litre of hot milk, stirring gently until thickened. Season with salt and pepper.

Pour the mixture into a tian or other dish.

Sprinkle with Gruyère cheese and bake for a few minutes.

Cardoon with marrow

Prepare and cook the cardoons as for the gratin. Cut 100 g of beef marrow into slices and cook for 5 minutes in salted water. Arrange the cardoons in a pyramid on the dish, garnish the edge with the slices of marrow, each placed on a small crouton of fried bread.

Pour the following sauce over the cardoons:
Reduce a glass of good stock or melt a little meat glaze, add a knob of butter, the juice of half a lemon, salt, pepper and chopped parsley, and boil briefly.

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