Definition: camembert

Nutritional values per 100 g:

Protein: 21 g; Carbohydrates: 0 g; Fat: 21 g; Calories: 314 kcal.

As two litres of milk are needed to make a 250 g Camembert, it is undoubtedly a very good source of calcium. It provides 300 mg/100 g, or just under 100 mg per 30 g serving. It also has a good phosphorus content. It therefore plays an essential role in the growth process. Its vitamin A and vitamin B2 content is also very beneficial in helping the nervous system to function properly.

Tasting: Choose Camembert based primarily on its appearance. You can safely avoid cheese with a hollow or cracked rind, as well as cheese with a grey or overly brown rind. The shape and surface should be smooth and even; the rind (the bloom) should be thin, with small brown spots and slightly yellow edges, which are signs of quality.

Next, put your sense of smell to work. At this stage, the fine, fruity bouquet, which is very characteristic, should not be too pronounced, but above all, it should not give off an ammonia smell, which is a sign of overripe cheese. The final step before putting it in your cooler bag to maintain the cold chain is to touch it. Gently press your thumb into it – it should be neither too firm nor too runny – and you will have the best Camembert. You can also check this before placing it on your cheese platter. Camembert is always served cut so that guests can appreciate the degree of ripeness. If the cheese is a beautiful straw yellow all the way to the centre, creamy but not runny, well done! Keeping Camembert in the refrigerator is still the best option for city dwellers like us. But be careful, it must be placed on the shelf (usually the bottom one), where the temperature - between 4 and 8°C - is ideal. In its original packaging, or wrapped in cling film to prevent its aroma from spreading throughout the fridge, it must be taken out at least half an hour before eating so that it regains its softness and aroma. Camembert likes cool, humid conditions, which is why it will also thrive in your cellar or on your balcony (away from air and light). Another option is to keep it under a glass dome on a tray in a temperate room.

Eat it according to your taste, mature (between 21 and 22 days) or ripe (30 to 35 days after production). As for long-life cheeses, those sold in shops, pay attention to the use-by date:

- 30 days before, it is not very mature, its texture is young and firm, and its bouquet is light with a fresh flavour.

- 20 days before, the paste is soft and the flavour has developed.

- The most discerning palates prefer it 10 days before, when the cheese is soft and melt-in-the-mouth, with a distinctive aroma and a more pronounced flavour. However, bear in mind that these cheeses are milder, with a very pronounced buttery taste and a more elastic texture.

On its own, of course, accompanied only by good bread and a glass of dry white wine or a red wine with low tannins, is when it is at its best. That said, there is nothing to stop you from adding a little touch of originality to this great traditional cheese to highlight its character. Breaded and fried on a green salad, melted and browned alongside raw apples, or even British-style with redcurrant jelly, the possibilities are endless.

Bake it in the oven, or if you're lucky enough to have one, cook it in its box on the barbecue until it turns black. Open it, remove the crust with a knife and enjoy dipping fresh bread into this very local fondue.

It can easily be incorporated into the preparation of elegant tarts or cakes. And why not in mousses and terrines? Some have let themselves go with all kinds of daring creations. Diamants normands, created by Alain Favris, camembert chocolates, or Maurice Gauthier's camembert sorbet can be enjoyed as an aperitif - surprising! Without going that far, you can't go wrong with potato or celeriac croquettes, or kneading the rind off to make canapés and toasts. Finally, you can marinate portions for an hour in apple, pear or Calvados alcohol before draining and using (breaded).

History: We owe Camembert to Marie Harel, a modest farmer's wife from a village in the Pays-d'Auge, at the end of^{the 18th century}. However, we must set the record straight: no, Marie did not invent this Norman cheese. As early as 1680, the archives of Camembert, the name of the village, refer to it. And in 1708, Thomas Corneille devoted an article to it in his dictionary. Nevertheless, during the French Revolution, Marie Harel took in a refractory priest from Brie. Grateful for her hospitality, he passed on to her the secret of making cheese from his region. Normandy and Brie traditions thus merged and gave birth to Camembert.

Three important steps have made Camembert what it is today. First, the advent of the railway around 1850 gave it the opportunity to conquer the markets of Paris and, very quickly, the whole of France. During the inauguration of a railway line, Napoleon III had the opportunity to taste it. Immediately enamoured with its rich character, he gave it the name of its village of origin and began to consume it very often. This was great publicity for this little Norman disc.

Another significant event occurred in 1890, when engineer Ridel invented the famous round box made of peeled poplar. Thanks to this wooden packaging, the cheese, a living organism, could breathe, making it possible to transport it over longer distances and around the world. Its success was undeniable beyond our borders, as Camembert has since been produced in many countries, including the United States, England and Germany.

The latest revolution in the history of Camembert came with the discovery of Penicillium candidum in 1910, which allows a white mould to develop, replacing the original blue-grey mould. Unpopular with the general public, producers used to remove it by washing the rind with plenty of water, or camouflaged it by covering it with ash. Camembert has been a symbol of the French nation since the 1914 war. Included in the daily rations of French soldiers, it took on a unifying value in the hearts of the French people.

As cheese is produced all over the world, it was necessary to have a way of recognising a genuine, high-quality Camembert. Since 1983, it has been protected by an A.O.C. (Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée); only cheese made from raw milk from Normandy can bear this designation. It must meet very specific criteria, from the location to the method of production. The production area is limited to the departments of Calvados, Eure, Manche, Orne and Seine-Maritime. Its manufacture must also comply with "local and consistent practices". Traditionally, it takes three weeks to make good Camembert:

1: Good raw milk from Normandy cows is collected, analysed and sorted before being partially skimmed and then left to mature in a heated room so that the lactic ferments can develop.

2: Rennet, an enzyme that causes the milk to curdle, is added to the heated milk (never above 37°C); this is called renneting. After stirring, the milk is left to rest so that it hardens. It can then be moulded. It takes 2 litres of milk to make a Camembert, i.e. five ladles. At this stage, the temperature is around 30°C, which is ideal for draining. This important stage lasts a day. The surface is levelled at the start of the process: this is called folding. At the end of the day, the cheeses are turned over.

3: It is time to remove the cheese from the mould, after which it is "trimmed" (the edges at the base of the mould are removed). It is now ready for salting. Sprinkled on all sides, the salt ultimately represents only 2% of the finished product. At this stage, penicillium candidum bacteria are added, which allow the cheese to mature and give it its creamy texture. It remains in the salting room for 24 hours at a temperature of 18/20°C.

4: Depending on the season, it is left to mature for a varying length of time in the ripening room (10/14°C) on racks. On the eighth day, it is carefully turned over.

12 days later: our Camembert is ready, measuring 11 cm in diameter and 3 cm thick, with a beautiful white rind. The final touch is the packaging. It is placed in a poplar box, where it continues to mature. Now it's ready to hit the market.

Note:

A wave of panic swept over producers of "real" Camembert and its lovers in the winter of 1999, following the listeria epidemic. Everyone can rest assured: not only is Camembert still produced with raw milk, but health and safety measures have been put in place, greatly reducing the risk of a new epidemic.Regular checks are carried out; although the presence of this substance is tolerated during the product's shelf life, its level must be zero when it leaves the factory.

And also: Camembert made from raw milk or pasteurised milk? Undoubtedly, Camembert made from raw milk is the "real" Camembert in the eyes of connoisseurs and discerning gourmets. What is raw milk? Milk that has not been heated to more than 37°C, which has simply not undergone pasteurisation. And yet that is enough to make all the difference. Lactic ferments are naturally present in raw milk. They develop, ferment and give each cheese its unique texture and character. To compensate for this, pasteurised Camemberts are regularly inoculated during the ripening process. This explains why their taste is so smooth and uniform.

Although it remains the undisputed king of the cheese board throughout the year, it is never as good as in spring, when the milk has a much better flavour.

Duck

Although different breeds and breeding techniques result in duck meat that is more or less fatty and calorific, the average is around 130 kcal per 100 g (by comparison, chicken is 160 kcal per 100 g).

Nutritional values per 100 g: Protein 19 g; Fat 6 g; Carbohydrates 0 g; Calories 130 kcal.

Duck is low in calories because most of its fat is contained in a uniform layer between the skin and the meat. This makes it very easy for people watching their weight to remove it (after cooking). However, this results in a loss of both flavour and nutrients, as this fat is rich in polyunsaturated fatty acids, known as "good cholesterol". In addition to its reasonable energy content, duck has a good vitamin content, particularly B vitamins, as well as a protein content equivalent to that of any other meat. However, it is in terms of iron, which is essential for oxygenating the body, that duck is even more interesting, as it has a higher iron content than other poultry.

Tasting: Mainly farmed, duck is therefore available for sale all year round, although it is more readily available from May onwards. The term "duck" only applies to animals aged between 2 and 4 months. Younger birds are still considered ducklings. It is important to choose poultry with fully developed bones and sufficiently developed flesh, i.e. fairly large, fatty and therefore tasty. Ducks generally weigh between 1.5 and almost 3 kg for the largest ones, and can feed 4 to 6 people. The largest females, although fatter, weigh on average 1 kg less. In terms of storage, it should be noted that once slaughtered, a duck can only be kept for three days before being eaten. Please note that if it is not gutted, it must be consumed immediately. Among farmed ducks, the Muscovy duck and the Nantes duck remain the most common. Firmer and less fatty, the flesh of the former has a more pronounced taste than the latter, whose delicacy and flavour come from its slightly higher fat content. It is this same excess fat that makes duck meat generally more creamy and delicate.

Surface fat, but nourishing: Located on the outside of the meat, duck fat is therefore very rare between the muscle interstices of the meat. This particularity results in meat that is fragile when cooked and cannot withstand too long a cooking time without drying out excessively. Regardless of the cooking method, duck meat is best served pink and still juicy. For a tender result, spit-roasting and oven-roasting are the most suitable methods, while for braised or stuffed dishes, well-cooked ducks, i.e. those that are not too young, are ideal. Less and less often cooked whole, duck owes part of its fame to a recipe that highlights a particularly tasty sweet and savoury combination. Drizzled with a Grand Marnier sauce and garnished with citrus segments, duck "à l'orange" is undoubtedly one of the classics of French cuisine. Another essential dish, this time from Chinese cuisine, is Peking duck, which also showcases sweet and sour combinations. The name of this thousand-year-old dish comes from the shiny, crispy appearance of the duck's skin after it has been continuously basted with a mixture of soy sauce, spices, honey and vinegar. However, duck is still most often found in pieces today. The breast fillets, or magrets, are the most prized parts of the animal. Although their name comes from the adjective "lean", they must be cooked and then presented with their characteristic layer of fat and skin. Although you may choose not to eat the skin despite its crispiness, it is essential not to remove it from the meat when cooking. This is because the skin protects the layer of fat, which nourishes the meat, making it tender and flavourful. Cut into thin strips and sometimes smoked, duck breasts are a real treat in a salad with lettuce, soft-boiled eggs and walnuts. A delicious speciality of south-western France, duck confit, cooked in fat and spices after being immersed in brine, is the pride and joy of an entire region. Eaten hot, in cassoulet or with sautéed potatoes, for example, these legs and gizzards prepared in this way can also be eaten cold. Finally, another speciality of the Gers and its surroundings, duck foie gras is renowned for its delicacy as well as its cooking properties. More assertive than its goose counterpart, this foie gras is readily used in cooking, becoming more melt-in-the-mouth and creamy when heated.

History: A web-footed bird of the Anatidae family, the duck has been known in China for over two millennia. Easy to domesticate, ducks are raised primarily for the quality of their meat and foie gras. There are many breeds, among which the Muscovy duck and the Nantes duck remain the most widespread, as well as the Mulard, which is generally reserved for foie gras production. Ducks are raised on grassy areas enclosed by small fences less than a metre high, crossed by a shallow stream, shaded if possible.Sold only during the hunting season (generally from August to January), wild duck, of which the mallard is the most famous specimen, has many culinary advantages, particularly when the legs and breast are roasted on a spit or in the oven. If there is one chef and one place that will always be associated with duck, it is of course Maître Frédéric, the illustrious chef of the famous Parisian restaurant La Tour-d'Argent. It is in the kitchens of this restaurant that the recipe for duck à la presse will come into its own. The technique consists of serving duck aiguillettes coated in a sauce flavoured with cognac and Madeira, then thickened with the meat juices collected by pressing the carcass of the animal. The recipe was so successful that Frédéric decided to number each of his pressed ducks, some of which were served to famous historical figures.Number 53,211 was served to Emperor Hirohito, 185,387 to Princess Elizabeth, and 253,652 to Charlie Chaplin.