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Sierras de Malaga, Monticara, Victoria Ordonez - 2017

  • Provenance: Andalousia
  • Appellation: D.O. Sierras de Málaga
  • Domain: Victoria Ordonez
  • Grape variety(ies): Malaga Moscatel. Son origine remonte à l'arrivée des Phéniciens sur la côte vers le VIIème siècle av. J-C. Dans les montagnes de la région Axarquia, il atteint une qualité inégalée. Bien qu'il soit traditionnellement utilisé pour faire des vins doux, ici il est fermenté sec.
  • On-call time: 15 years
  • Style of wine: Vin de méditation
  • Alcohol degree: 13%
Or 'the side that faces the mountain'. 3,665 bottles are produced by Victoria Ordóñez, who demonstrates her talent as a winemaker and precursor here, as this is the first Malaga of the modern era made from moscatel and aged in wood. Pale yellow in colour with hints of gold, it has a wonderful nose of orange blossom and tangerine, which precedes a sensational palate of tension and salinity. Long ageing is to be expected!
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This wine comes from two plots of 0.64 and 1.04 ha planted in 1932, in the Upper Axarquía region, at an altitude of 800 m. on a 68% slope. Yields are less than 2'000 kg/ha. Axarquia is located to the east of Malaga. Its metamorphic soils are made up of schist, interspersed with white quartz, with very little organic content.


The mild local climate is conditioned by the influence of the Mediterranean to the south and the mountainous barrier of Tejeda and Almijara Sierras to the north, which protects it from cold winds. Grapes are hand-picked in 9 kg crates, using mules. Fermented and aged in new French oak barrels for 10 months. Kept for four months in bottle before release.

Suggestions for accompaniment

Accras with Espelette chilli - Escalivada - Salt crusted sea bass - Grilled prawns and baked tomatoes.

The author Cecilio García de La Leña spoke as early as the 18th century of the wines of Montes de Málaga, which enjoyed "a perfect reputation" and were "acclaimed throughout Europe, even in America and Russia". No less! Their production was abandoned due to the ravages of phylloxera and it was not until 2015 that viticulture was reborn in the region with the arrival of the winery, which is still the only one in the area. From there, everything has to be reinvented, no model to follow, just one's own path to follow. Heroic viticulture is necessary to give birth to these wines; slopes between 46 and 76% make mechanised work impossible on the 12 small plots of land scattered among oaks and pines at altitudes ranging from 800 to 1000m. The soils date from the Precambrian period, 600 million years ago. They are very poor in organic matter and very complex with the presence of phyllite, limestone, sandstone, shale and silica among magma residues. Yields are very low (900/1000kg per hectare), which allows for parcel farming in small containers.

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